"Lord of the Isles, my
trust in thee Is firm as Ailsa Rock!" -Sir W. Scott.
Landing
on Ailsa is not always an easy matter. Still, either at the North or South Port,
a boat can usually be run ashore safely enough. The Lighthouse Commissioners
have erected a wooden Jetty at the North Port, with a line of rails and a
stationary engine for landing supplies from vessels, and this Jetty is the one
at which visitors are generally put ashore. When the visitor lands, he finds a
considerable space formed of earth and stones, in front of which stands the
Lighthouse and its attendant buildings, while the tenant's cottage keeps its old
station by the North Port. On the place where the gaswork now stands, there
formerly stood the chapel and burying-ground mentioned by early writers; and in
corroboration of this, it may be mentioned that four stone coffins were recently
discovered there; two in the neighbourhood of the tenant's house,(1)
and two when the workmen were digging a pit for one of the gasometers.
But
the gaswork was not the immediate successor of the chapel and burying ground;
for about fifty years ago, a company of Glasgow merchants erected upon the same
site a row of houses to accommodate a colony of fishermen whom they proposed to
settle on the island, for the purpose of supplying Glasgow and Liverpool with
fish, through a line of steamers then recently started betwixt those two ports.
Before the project had been fairly commenced, however, the gentleman who had
been the leading spirit in the enterprise died, and the houses were dismantled.
For many years, the ground inside the walls served as a kailyard for the tenant
of the island.
Standing
then at the landing place and looking upwards, the visitor finds there are two
paths by which the summit may be reached. The first is called "The
Highlandman's Road," and begins close by the tenant's house. It is a
dangerous, zig-zag pathway, seemingly impracticable when looked at in front, but
quite safe to a cool head and a steady foot. In fact, old Craig hands think
nothing of the danger, and are in the habit of making use of it when going to
their work. But there is another and safer pathway which leads in a slanting
direction to the castle, and this is the road always taken by visitors. This
pathway is about three feet broad, although occasionally narrower; and as there
is no ledge betwixt the climber and the steep slope below, the task is trying to
those who are apt to be giddy.
After
climbing the first ascent (supposed by Dr M'Culloch to be 250 feet high, but
found by the Ordnance Survey to be 392 feet), a fiat is reached, extending
across the face of the Rock, called the Castle Comb, or hollow; and on the edge
of this is built the Castle of Ailsa; a small rectangular fort of three storeys,
with cellar below. This tower is thirty feet in height, and each of the
apartments is fourteen feet long by eleven feet broad. One of them contains a
stone oven similar to that in the Abbot's House of Crossraguel. There is a
broken spiral stair leading to the roof, and there are also the foundations of
what seems an outhouse stretching for seventeen feet towards the north. The only
carving on it is an armorial shield with three cinque-foils arranged in the form
of the letter V. The three cinque-foils are well known to belong to the arms of
the Hamilton family, and the wonder is that these should have taken the place of
the three cross-crosslets of the Kennedys.(2)
The only clue to the mystery that has as yet been proposed was indicated in the
previous chapter. If this clue be correct, the last repairer of the castle has
usurped the honour of the builder of it; for we know from other sources that
there has been a castle on Ailsa since at least 1580, and probably long before.
Indeed, one would say, the proprietor of the island must always have had some
such way of justifying his ownership. The stone of which the castle is built is
the common stone of the island, with the exception of the lintels, quoins, and
stairs, which are sandstone of the same colour and quality as that which abounds
on the opposite coast of Ayrshire.
Continuing
our toilsome way we pass the Castle Well, and then after a scramble which brings
us about 400 feet higher, we descend to the Garry Loch, which is nearly dry in
summer, and bordered with a fringe of soft green moss and a luxuriant crop of
marsh marigolds. The bottom of this loch has been probed to a depth of seventeen
feet without touching the rock. And now, at last, after devious wanderings, the
climber is rewarded by reaching the cairn which stands on the summit, at a
height of 1114 feet. From this point, the view is magnificent. Passing vessels
look like toy-boats on a pond. Loch Ryan and Belfast Lough you look into.
Cantyre and Arran lie behind you while South Ayrshire stretches itself out
before you like a panorama, with every farm house distinct, and the blue hills
standing finely in the back-ground. We see Carlock and Beneraird in Ballantrae
Parish, Knockdolian and Carleton in Colmonell Parish, the Byne and Saugli hills
of Girvan, Mochrum and Carrick hill in Maybole, while away in the horizon stand
shouldering each other Shalloch-on-Minnoch, Canine's Cairn, Merrick, Cairnsmore
of Carsphairn, and the other monarchs who hold their court near the head of Loch
Doon.
As
seen from the sea, there appears to be no level surface on Ailsa, but this a
mistake. There are many little stretches of soft green sward upon it, where
rabbits nibble and goats browse, and where one is apt to forget for the time
that he is on the summit of a huge Rock, cut off from the lower world by ranges
of cliffs 400 feet high. The surface of course is very uneven, and every little
hollow has its distinguishing name. One large hollow on the south end rejoices
in the name of Clashwaun, and another parallel to it is called Garryloo. One
portion is known as the Coach Road, another as Mochrum Steps, another as the
Kailyard; while a deep valley on the north end receives the appropriate name of
the Nettley Howe.(3) The brink of the
precipices all round the island are called locally the Barrheads; and the
openings in these Barrheads are known by such quaint cognomens as Dory's Yett,
Rotten Nick, Sliddery, and Slunk.
But
after all, the grandest treat at Ailsa is not to climb to the top of it, but to
sail round it, and to do this, if possible, in a small-boat. It is true one may
walk round it at low water; but this is very toilsome work, and not at all
conducive to comfort. Besides, the visitor then is too near the cliffs to see
them properly. Starting, therefore, from the Lighthouse and going south, the
first cliff we arrive at is Craigna'an,(4)
and here we begin to come upon the cliff-building birds, although in small
numbers; for the Ailsa birds, generally speaking, do not build on the east or
north sides of the island, but on the south and west. The next range of cliffs
after Craigna'an is known as the Trammins, east and west; and at their base
stand the South Fog Horn House and Signal Post. Here also we come upon a grove
of Bourtree or Elder bushes, the only apology for a forest the island possesses.
The vast mass of fallen rocks on the south end form the principal abode of the
puffins, and it is here the nets are usually spread to catch them. The Trammins
are more densely thronged than Craigna'an, but as soon as we turn a corner and
pass the Rotten Nick (the outlet of Clashwaun), we come upon the Main Craigs,
where the bird hive is seen in full activity, 'with all its noisy and confusing
accompaniments.
The
cliffs of Ailsa, it may be here remarked, are formed of basaltic columns, four,
five, and six sided. They resemble the columns of Staffa or Giant's Causeway,
although not so perfectly formed. From the base to the summit, every here and
there, the tops of these columns have been broken off; and it is on the flat
surface of these broken columns that the birds nestle. The eggs are laid so
close as almost to touch each other; and as the nests are very loosely built, it
seems wonderful that the whole are not some stormy night swept off into the sea.
It is awe inspiring to look up into the face of these cliffs from the heaving
sea below, when the very rocks seem alive with the many thousands of birds
sitting on their nests, or wheeling above your head and uttering their incessant
cries. It resembles the din of a rookery, but multiplied a thousandfold.
Before
turning the corner of the Main or Goose Craigs and passing northwards, there are
three interesting objects to be pointed out. The first is a rock jutting out
from the shore, and called from its shape Little Ailsa. Behind this, and at the
foot of Kennedy's nags (as the rocks above are named), is a cave of considerable
dimensions called MacNall's cave. This cave is 113 feet in length, with a width
of 12 feet, and reaching in the loftiest part a height of 21 feet. Its entrance
is not easily noticed, being about 40 feet above sea level, and is reached by
climbing an immense bank of debris. Some years ago when the floor of this cave
was being cleared of a stock of guano which in the course of ages had
accumulated in it, the labourers came upon two stone coffins containing bones.
Whether one of these was that of MacNall himself is not known; but it is not at
all unlikely that a bold smuggler like him, with every man's hand against him,
would like to be buried away from gaugers, beside the sounding sea. I have not
been able to learn anything of MacNall except that he was a smuggler who lived
in this cave. But it is well known that about the end of last century, smuggling
was very prevalent along our Ayrshire coast,(5)
and a safe plate for receiving the goods would be a desideratum. In these
circumstances, what would be more natural than to land these goods on Ailsa, and
hide them in this cave, which would probably be little known, till opportunity
occurred for taking them quietly ashore in a fishing boat, and disposing of them
to the best advantage? Such, at any rate, was the plan adopted by MacNail; and
it is said that one of the tenants of Ailsa, David Bodan, who lived in the early
part of this century, used to follow MacNail's example. On one occasion he was
beset by six armed men of the Coast Guard, near Dunure, and called on to
surrender. Bodan, however, put his back to a rock, and taking his assailants one
by one as they approached, forcibly seized their guns, hurled the men back, and
after breaking their weapons across his knee, threw the fragments down the
cliffs.(6).
But
MacNail's Cave is tame in appearance compared with another cave close by it. For
turning Stranny Point, the visitor notes the entrance of a cave whose beauty
might well make it famous. This is the Water Cave or Mermaid's Cave; the
pillared sides and roof of which render it a fitting companion to Fingal's Cave
itself. The total length of this cave is 142 feet, the height in the middle is
36 feet, and the width varies from 11 feet to 2 feet 2 inches. It is not
straight like MacNall's Cave, but has a twist to the right, winding into the
solid rock till it comes to an abrupt ending with a width of 5 feet and a height
of 6 feet 6 inches. There are just two drawbacks to the visitor's comfort in
exploring this cave. In the first place, there is a bar of rock at the entrance
with a deep hole beyond it, which makes it difficult to enter it dry shod at low
water; although at high water a small boat may be floated into its very mouth.
In the second place, a lighted torch is necessary to explore it fully. But both
of these difficulties may be surmounted, and the sight well repays the trouble.
Continuing
our course round the island, we come to the West Craigs, the highest and
grandest of them all. The multitude of birds here baffles description, while the
confused Babel of sounds, from the croak of the puffin, the scream of the gull,
the cackle of the gannet, and the sharp scolding of the kittiwake, furnish a
concert of a decidedly novel kind. It is to be noticed, too, that amid all their
confused circlings, each tribe of birds keeps its own layer, and wheels in its
own direction, so as to lessen the risk of collision: for there seems to be a
"rule of the road" in the air as well as on the nether earth. The main
body of the solan geese build on the West Craigs, although a number build also
on the Main Craigs; while the guillemots and razorbills seem to confine
themselves to the West. The vast height of the cliffs here may be brought home
to us by calling to mind that they are nearly of the same height as St. Roliox
Stalk in Glasgow, or the Pyramids of Egypt. And the great shelves on which the
birds sit, are apt to suggest to a Scotch mind a gigantic Kitchen Dresser of the
olden times, where living birds and their eggs take the place of crockery ware.
On
the West side of the island are certain objects to which special names have been
given. For instance, the Loutin' Stane is a basaltic column above Stranny Point,
which has become semi-detached from the rest, and the Hingin' Stane is a similar
column a little farther on. Dory's Yett is an opening in the range of cliffs
leading down to the Bed of Grass below. The Ashydoo Craigs form a lower range of
cliffs towards the North, while behind them rise the Balvar Craigs. Two veins of
trap here rejoice in the appropriate names respectively of the Slunk and
Sliddery; a large flat rock on the sea-shore is called the Boating Stone; and a
sort of cavern formed by several huge masses of rock which have fallen from the
cliffs above, has received the fanciful name of the Ashydoo Kirk.(7)
Round
the North-West corner of Ailsa, as round the South-West, there cluster a number
of points of interest. Chief of these is the huge Bare Stack, or
"jutting-out rock," which forms the loftiest precipice on the island.
Its blunt perpendicular outline may be traced from the opposite Ayrshire coast.
On a tuft of grass growing in the face of it near the top, eagles used to build,
though these have now given place to hawks. The last eagle that visited Ailsa
was an erne or sea eagle, and was shot by the tenant in 1881. It measured seven
feet from tip to tip of its wings, and is now preserved in Culzean Castle. At
the foot of the Bare Stack, towards the North, is the Swine Cave, where, in all
probability, the hogs formerly kept on the island were penned. This large cavern
has a width at the entrance of fifty-six feet, a length of seventy-two feet, and
a varying height of twenty-four, thirty, and forty feet. Immediately beyond the
Swine Cave rises the Pinnacle, a high pointed rock, and in front of it stands
the North Foghorn House, while in its vicinity we see the Red Hone Quarry,
whence the red coloured curling stones are taken. From this point, the road to
the Lighthouse is made easy by a pathway cut in the rock, with a number of
foot-bridges spanning the various ravines which occur. But at one time the road
was of the most difficult sort, as may indeed be guessed from certain of the
chasms being called to this day The Loups.
(1)The
two skulls were sold for half-a-crown a-piece to some curiosity hunters from
Glasgow. Certainly the original owners had no further need of them!
(2)
It is true that the Hamilton cinque-foils are usually arranged in a line, while
these are in a triangle; but this makes no difference, as a note I have received
from the Heralds' College, Edinburgh, informs me that the arms as given above
are "those of the Hamilton family correctly represented."
(3)
As seen from Girvan, the Nettley Howe is the indentation in the northern
outline, and Clashwaun the corresponding indentation in the southern.
(4)
Pronounced Craignyawn
(5)
"Smuggling of tea, tobacco, and brandy was carried on in South Ayrshire
formerly. Large vessels, then called Buckers, lugger-rigged, carrying twenty and
sometimes thirty guns, were in the habit of landing their cargoes in the Bay of
Ballantrae; while a hundred Lintowers, some of them armed with cutlass and
pistol, might have been seen waiting with their horses ready to receive them, to
convey the goods by unfrequented paths through the country, and even to Glasgow
and Edinburgh. Many secret holes, receptacles for contraband articles, still
exist, in the formation of which much skill and cunning is shewn. The Old Kirk
of Ballantrae itself contained one of the best."-Paterson's History of
Ayrshire.
About
a mile from Ballantrae, on the Colmonell Road, there may still be seen in a
brae-face called "the Heck," a large hole named "the Brandy
Hole," and most of the fishermen of those days had secret trap doors in
their kitchen floors. In later days smuggling was confined to carrying salt from
Ireland, and the exploits of the fishermen in "doing" Dowie's cutter
were fireside stories fifty years ago.
(6)
At another time a certain noble lord had gone out to the Craig for a day's
shooting at the goats. On his return with Bodan, he used the tacksman's dog
unmercifully. Bodan at once seized his lordship by the neck of his coat and the
loose part of his nether garment, and soused him over the boat's side in the
sea. A second dip was threatened unless an apology was given, which the noble
lord at once acceded to.
(7)
Small boats rowing round the Craig should be on their guard against a sunken
ridge of rocks called the Rig, which are exposed at low tide. Off the Bare
Stack, the bottom sinks to an unknown depth.
Note
respecting MacNall.- When beginning my inquiries about Ailsa, I was informed
that a life of MacNail had been written, which of course I was anxious to see.
Through the kindness of a friend, I at last procured a copy, but found it to be
one of those historical romances so common in certain newspapers, and which of
course was worthless for my purpose. According to this tale-writer, William
MacNall was a persecutor in the covenanting times-seduced a young woman,
daughter of one who had been martyred-went to sea-became a smuggler-was left on
Ailsa to guard a portion of the cargo-suffered much there, both in body and
mind-was taken by some fishers to the mainland, where he became a vagrant-was
attracted by an open-air preaching, conducted by his son, on the spot where the
covenanter had been murdered-and was converted. As a specimen of the
"tall" style in which it is written, take the following description of
MacNall's cave :-" To the west was seen a lengthened range of the hills of
Erin, and straight above the cave were rocks of a tremendous height, from the
craggy clefts of which, amid the interlude of the lashing waves, the mournful
creak of the solan goose was heard." The writer, too, is guilty of the
anachronism of linking together the covenanting of the seventeenth century, with
the smuggling of the eighteenth. Altogether, no reliance can be placed on the
book as history.
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