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Maybole,
Carrick's Capital Facts, Fiction & Folks by James T. Gray,
Alloway Publishing, Ayr. First published 1972. Copyright ©
Permission for display on this site granted by David Gray. You may view
and download chapters of this book for personal research purposes only. No other
distribution of this text is authorized.
The story of this ancient Ayrshire town from its
early beginnings in the 12th century through its growth and
development until the nineteen sixties. A fascinating record of the
history of a town including a wealth of factual information on its
outstanding buildings growth of industry etc., the book also
gives an insight into the life of the community and townsfolk
themselves.
Table of Contents
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Chapter
27
MISCELLANY
WHEN
the civic heads of the town "process" through the streets they are led
by the Town Officer who carries a red and white staff. This has been the
practice for hundreds of years and the right to carry the staff is based on an
Act of Parliament passed by James I in 1432 which stated: "Ane officer of
Regality must gae furth before his folk carrying ane rod or staff, three
quarters of a yaird lang, tane pairt coloured reid and tother pairt coloured
quhite." For generations a plain red and white rod was carried before the
councilors but it was lost in the middle of last century and for about a hundred
years the Town Officer did not display this badge of office. In 1945 Mrs.
Chesney presented a new staff to the Council in memory of her father, Mr. James
Miller, who had been Provost from 1912 to 1921. The new staff was made from a
piece of the old Dule Tree of Cassillis, gifted by Frances, Marchioness of
Ailsa, and Mr. James Jeff, the Kirkcudbright artist, carved a dolphin on one end
of it and a burghal coronet on the other, painted it red and white as laid down
in the statute of 1432, and now the councillors can march in order as their
predecessors did.
A
note in the Town Records about the end of the eighteenth century refers to the
"toun flag" being in need of repair but no further reference is made
to it and it must have lain until it rotted away. Mrs. Chesney again generously
stepped in to bring back the old traditions which had been forgotten and in 1952
she presented the burgh with a new "toun flag". The flag has a yellow
background, the red chevron of Carrick and the rampant blue lions of Bruce and
is flown in the Town Green every year on the 14th November to commemorate the
granting of the town’s Charter in 1516 and on other noteworthy occasions.
The
curfew was tolled from the town steeple for centuries until it was stopped
during the Second World War and the Council decided not to continue it after the
cessation of hostilities much to the regret of the older generation who were
reared to the sound of the curfew each night. In days gone by the bell was rung
each night at 8 p.m. when all douce Minniebolers were expected to be in their
own homes. Last century the Council decided to ring the bell each morning at 6
a.m. to get the townspeople out of bed to start work and put back the nightly
curfew from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m. After the first World War the morning rising bell
was discontinued but the evening curfew was rung and many householders checked
their clocks with the "ten o’clock bell". It is a pity the old
custom of ringing the curfew was not renewed after the war as Maybole was one of
the few towns in Scotland, which had kept up the practice for hundreds of years.
The
people of Maybole were mainly staunch Protestants and the town was a noted
centre of the Covenanters and many are the tales told of local "preachings"
in the hills around the town in these troublesome times. In 1678 the largest
conventicle ever held in Scotland took place at Craigdow Hill when over 7,000
people gathered to listen to Peden and Cargil and other preachers, and 600 armed
men were posted round the hill to guard the worshippers from attack by the
government force stationed in the district to quell the Covenanters. Peden and
Cargil were frequent visitors to the district as is evidenced by the local names
of "Peden’s Thorn" at Cultizeoun, "Cargil’s Stone" on
the Cross Roads, "Peden’s Cave" at the Nick o’ the Balloch and
many other places. The original National Covenant, which is exhibited in the
Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh contains the signatures of many Maybole men and
at the November Fair in the town in 1677 so many swords were sold to known
Covenanters from the swordmakers booths that a special report on this strange
and sudden desire for arms was sent to the government.
One
of the most noted covenanters in the district was John McLymont of Auchalton
Farm near Crosshill. He was persecuted for years and his home was burned down
and he and his family had to hide on Glenalla moor where the soldiers searched
for them for days but fortunately were unable to find them. For years he could
not return to his farm but finally, when the troublesome times were over, he and
his wife returned to Auchalton where he lived until his death at the age of 69
on 1st November, 1714. He is buried in the old cemetery at Kirkport under a
large "thruch" stone which is near the entrance gate and on which the
following interesting inscription is engraved:
"Under
this neighbouring monument lies
The
Golden dust of man and wife,
Of
pious line, both soon shall rise,
To
long expected, glorious life.
They
for their constancy and zeal,
Still
to the back, did prove good steel
For
our Lord’s royal truths and laws
The
ancient covenanted cause
Of
Scotland’s famous Reformation,
Declining
laws of usurpation."
Many
years after his death an old sword was found hidden in the thatched roof of
Auchalton farmhouse and it was believed to belong to the staunch covenanter who
may have bought it at Maybole Fair in 1677.
During
the covenanting times Grier of Lagg was stationed in the district with troops to
quell the local people and it is said he made his headquarters in the Dunnering
Inn which was a famous hostelry in Weaver Vennal for many generations.
One
of the most famous family feuds in Scotland raged for years around the old town
of Maybole when the Bargany and Cassillis factions of the Kennedy family were at
each others’ throats. The feud started through the Earl of Cassillis
persuading Allan Stewart, Commendater of Crossraguel Abbey, to sign over the
lands of Crossraguel to the Earl and the story of this persuasion has been
handed down, and greatly embellished, throughout the years. The Commendater (not
the Abbot as so many wrongly state when they speak of the "Roasting of the
Abbot") was loath to sign over the property to the Earl and he was taken to
Dunure Castle and there toasted over a fire in the "black vault of
Dunure" until he finally succumbed to pressure and signed the necessary
documents. Allan Stewart naturally complained of his treatment at the hands of
the Earl who was summoned by the Privy Council to appear personally before the
Regent and the Secret Council, but they, with all the facts before them, treated
the Earl extremely leniently, which tends to prove the incident was not so
drastic as it seems now when related four hundred years after the event. The
Laird of Bargany, however, who was the brother-in-law of Allan Stewart did not
accept the Regent’s findings on the case and chose to be his own judge and
executioner by bitterly attacking the Casillis branch of his family and this was
the start of one of the most deadly and disastrous feuds in the country which
was finally ended by the death of young Bargany at Ladycross in 1601.
Part
of the feud which was centred around the old town of Maybole culminated in the
trial of the Mures of Auchendrane which is said to be one of the most remarkable
in the whole range of the criminal annals of this, or any other, country. On 3rd
January, 1597, John Mure of Auchendrane with a party of followers came to
Maybole and attempted to murder Sir Thomas Kennedy of Culzean who was then
residing at his home in the town (where the Union Bank now stands) but the
attempt failed and Sir Thomas managed to escape by hiding in the old kirkyard at
the bottom of the hill below his home. Sir Thomas prosecuted Mure for the
assault and attempted murder, but finally the parties became seemingly friendly
when Mure apologised and, to seal the friendship between the two families, Mure’s
son married the daughter of Sir Thomas. Mure was then related to both the
powerful Kennedy factions as his wife was a daughter of Bargany and his son the
husband of a daughter of the Culzean family and he was in a position where he
could perhaps have worked to put a stop to the feud. He was a false and
treacherous man, however, and could not bury his enmity against the Casillis
branch and it was he who really influenced young Bargany against the Earl of
Cassillis and in the end brought about the death of the young man. Sir Thomas
Kennedy of Culzean, although tutor and guardian of his nephew, the young Earl of
Cassillis, kept apart from the quarrel, considering his connection as
father-in-law to young Auchendrane to be too strong to be broken, even to assist
his nephew. Unfortunately the Mures of Auchendrane were of a different stamp and
they nursed their hatred to all connected with the House of Cassillis. Sir
Thomas had to visit Edinburgh on business and sent word of his proposed visit to
the Capital to Mure, offering to attend to any business which Mure might wish
carried out while Sir Thomas was in the city. The message regarding the visit
was carried to Mure by a schoolboy from Maybole named Dalrymple, who was
nicknamed "Johnny Glegfoot", and when he received it Mure told the
schoolboy to take it back to Maybole and say he had not been able to deliver it
as Mure was away from home. Mure then gathered some of his followers together
and waited on Sir Thomas on his journey to Edinburgh at a place called Duppil, a
little to the west of the town of Ayr, and when Sir Thomas rode past they set on
him and murdered him, and stole his money, rings and gold buttons from his coat.
To prevent "Johnny Glegfoot" from betraying them the Mures sent him
out of the district but he returned and was also murdered on the instructions of
Mure. The murderers were apprehended and their trial. dragged on until finally
both father and son were found guilty and were beheaded in 1611 after one of the
most famous trials in Scottish history. Sir Walter Scott based his "Tragedy
of Auchendrane" on this incident of local history and the story should be
read by all Minniebolers who would find it of great interest.
Many
townspeople are often confused when mention is made of the "Auld Kirk"
at Kirkport and are apt to think of the "Auld College" as the building
in question but the two churches, although near each other were entirely
separate buildings. The Old Collegium was a Roman Catholic church and originally
stood in its own grounds, which were quite extensive, and had its own burial
plot around it, entirely apart from what is now called the "Old
Cemetery". Part of the burial ground of the Old College was east of where
the Lorne Tannery formerly stood and where the council houses are now in Manse
Street and for a time the area was used as a fairground, and locally known as
"Aggie Henderson’s Field". Some tombstones were uncovered when
building was carried out on the site but they were mostly so defaced it was
impossible to trace the dates on them but they must have been very old. The
Parish Church was built adjacent to the "Old College" and a new
"God’s Acre" formed round it at the foot of Kirkwynd and was there
until the new church was built in New Yards in 1808. Traces of the "Auld
Kirk" may still be found near the present entrance to the old cemetery.
The
oldest tombstone in the old town cemetery is beside the west wall and it is
inscribed "Heir lyis ane honest man, Moreis Makmorrie, and his spouse, quha
deceist in ye last of October 1618". There must have been older tombstones
as the cemetery was in use in the 16th century but they probably crumbled away
and would be removed. It has been said the cemetery was actually in use from the
13th century but this is only conjecture as no trace can be found of any burials
so early as has been suggested and it is improbable that the small town required
two cemeteries as the burial ground of the Old College would be sufficient for
all interments, especially as all townsfolk were Roman Catholics until the 16th
century. Although the new cemetery at Tunnoch was opened in 1851 interments took
place quite often in the old one up until the second decade of the present
century. For many years the old burial ground was allowed to lie rather derelict
but recently old houses have been removed from around it and the boundary walls
have been rebuilt in attractive stonework and the old God’s Acre is now trim
and neat. It is well worthy of a visit by townspeople interested in the history
of the town, as many of the people whose names are household words in Maybole
are buried there and some of their tombstones have interesting inscriptions. The
tombstone of the famous Bailie Niven and his wife is situated in the centre of
the site of the old church, a stone near the gate marks the grave of David
Dunn, a well-known schoolmaster who spent a night carousing in the Kings Arms
with Robert Burns in 1786, and many of the old stones are engraved with the
usual skulls, crossbones, hourglasses, etc., while one has no inscription
whatsoever, and, from the appearance of it, never was inscribed, which seems
strange as the old generations were always keen on long and fulsome epitaphs.
Many of the present Minniebolers could trace their forefathers back for
generations by spending an odd hour browsing among the monuments in the
"Auld Cemetery".
Although
most of the Maybole men were staunch Covenanters and strict sabbatarians some
were also hard headed farmers who considered the reaping of their hard won crops
was of primary importance and this is illustrated by a curious little story of
the early 19th century. At a Sunday morning service in September, 1807, the Rev.
James Wright intimated from his pulpit that, as the day was good and ideal for
harvesting the crops, those who wished to do so could work in their fields lest
there be a change in the weather and the crops ruined, and they could do so
without violating the Sabbath. Such an intimation was tantamount to heresy to
many of the congregation (probably all the non farmers) and it caused such an
uproar that it was taken to the Presbytery and an enquiry was set up and finally
the matter was taken to the Synod in October, 1808. The Synod ruled that all
members of the church "must be sensible as to the sanctification of the
Sabbath" and to "beware how far they allowed cases of necessity which
may form a stumbling block to any of the parishioners". It seemed that
while Synod had to damn the Rev. Wright’s practical advice to make hay while
the sun shone they were not averse "to cases of necessity", in this
instance the reaping of the crops. Perhaps they had in the back of their minds
that the stipends came from the crops and a ruined harvest meant less stipend.
The Town Council supported the Rev. Wright’s action in advising the farmers
"to make full use of suitable weather, irrespective of the day", and
sent a petition to the Synod stating that in their opinion there was no need for
any enquiry. They pointed out that although the Minister had advised those with
crops to secure to get on with it he had also intimated there would be an
afternoon service in church for those who did not need to work.
On
Saturday, 30th May, 1953, a historical pageant was held in the town to
commemorate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth which was to take place on 2nd
June, 1953. This pageant was undoubtedly the greatest event held in the old town
for very many years and every organization from Boy Scouts to Church Guilds took
part in providing actors to show the town’s history from its earliest days up
to the coronation year. The "Pageant of Maybole" was written and
produced by Raymond Lewis who was a teacher in Carrick Academy and he faithfully
reproduced for the townspeople all the interesting events which had occurred in
the old township over hundreds of years. The procession started at Carrick
Academy and, led by the Town Band, "processed" to the Sheep Park where
there were tableaux showing a conventicle, the roasting of the Commendater of
Crossraguel, Marjory, mother of Robert the Bruce hawking at Turnberry, smugglers
with their brandy kegs, knights in armour, and many other scenes from local
history; The procession included people representing Robert the Bruce, Robert
Burns, John Loudon McAdam, Sir Gilbert Blane, James Rodger and many other
notables connected with the town including General Eisenhower the town’s first
freeman. Fortunately it was a beautiful summer day and for the thousands who
came from far and near, the "Pageant of Maybole" was a wonderful
living spectacle of the town’s history. Once again the friendly and couthy
atmosphere of the old town was emphasised by the harmony in which the people
worked together to make "their" pageant something worthwhile and their
efforts were greatly appreciated and will be long remembered. It is unfortunate
that such an old town has not a small museum where old pictures of places and
people could be shown along with a weaver’s loom and a cobbling bench which
were the tools of the trades which made Maybole a thriving town in the past.
There must be many articles of interest in the town which could be gathered
together and put on display so that those interested in old Maybole could see
how their forefathers lived, and maybe such a museum will be formed. Meantime
the Council Chamber is the only place where some items of local interest can be
seen and on its walls there are pictures showing the visit of Queen Elizabeth
and Prince Phillip, the freedom ceremony for General Eisenhower and a copy of
the Town Charter of 1516. The Town Staff and the old town bell are also on view
in the Council Chamber and the photographs of all provosts of the burgh since
1882. These are:
Charles Tennant |
1882-84 |
James Gray |
1884-85 |
John Marshall |
1885-94 |
James Ramsay |
1894-1905 |
William McKelIar |
1905-12 |
James Miller |
1912-21 |
Hugh Fáirlie |
1921-24 |
John Crawford |
1924-27 |
John McCubbin |
1927-36 |
James McCulloch |
1936-42 |
John Gibson |
1942-44 |
Thomas Hicks |
1944-47 |
Alexander Burns |
1947-51 |
James T. Gray |
1951-54 |
Thomas Murray |
1954-57 |
John Dunlop |
1957-60 |
Mrs. Sarah Dunn |
1960-63 |
John McDowall |
1963-66 |
James Macrae |
1966-69 |
William Cuthbert |
1969- |
The
photographs are in a frame in chronological order and show that the provosts had
no chain of office until the time of Provost McCubbin who was first to wear it.
This provost’s chain was presented by Mr. John Edgar, who was a member of the
Council for many years and it is a beautifully designed silver gilt collarette
with a large pendant with the burgh coat of arms in enamel. The links are in the
shape of the initial "M" and are engraved with the names and dates of
the provosts since the time of Provost McCubbin. The photograph of Provost
Thomas Murray is the first to show the robes of office which were purchased by
the Council during his term of provostship. In 1952 the Bailies’ badges were
presented to the Council by some local people who subscribed to a fund raised to
purchase them and the Senior Baffle’s badge shows the seal of the burgh and
the Junior Bailie’s the Town Crest. These originally were fitted with lovely
silk collarettes in the town’s colours but are now suspended on small gilt
chains which are not so decorative as the silk collarettes. When Scotland is
"regionalised", as is now proposed and Town Councils, as such, are
swept away, it is to be hoped these badges of office will be preserved in some
manner and not be stored away and lost as has happened in the past.
It
can be truly said that the power behind the Provost’s chair in most small
towns is the Town Clerk and Maybole has indeed been fortunate in the men who
have filled this office. Since the days of Provost Tennant there have been only
four Town Clerks, the first being James Gibson, the second James M. Gibson (son
of previous clerk), David Briggs and the present clerk, John Boyd. Indeed it can
be said that only two of these men have really directed the councillors in
matters of law, etc., during the past eighty odd years as James Gibson was clerk
for nearly fifty years, his son, James M. Gibson was clerk for less than a year
and David Briggs was in office for over thirty years, retiring about seven years
ago to be succeeded by his business partner, John Boyd. This is a record of long
service which few towns can equal and another point regarding the town clerks
which, it is believed, few other burghs can claim, is the fact that all these
men were born and bred in the town. It would seem that the old custom of
hundreds of years still persists and Minniebolers feel they are fit to govern
their own affairs with their own folks as they did when they ignored the laws of
the country at the time of the Reformation and on many other occasions.
There
have been many changes in the old town over the past sixty years and those who
emigrated to Canada and elsewhere around 1909 would find it difficult to
reconcile their memories of the place with present day facts. At the beginning
of this century the High Street was cobbled and the traffic consisted of farm
carts and an occasional high wheeled gig drawn by a high stepping pony and
invariably followed by a covey of boys anxious to "haud yer horse,
mister" ‘should it stop at "Cowan’s" or the Kings Arms or
some of the shops. Nowadays the street is asphalted, "no waiting" is
the rule and the endless stream of cars and lorries makes it a perilous journey
indeed to cross from one pavement to another. Sixty years ago everyone stopped
to admire, and wonder, at the first car in the district which was owned by the
Marquess of Ailsa (registered number SD1) and it was a great event when His
Lordship appeared in town in it.
It
had solid, rubber tyred wheels, was steered by a pole like a boat’s rudder,
and the occupants sat facing each other in a boxlike contraption at the back
while the chauffeur sat perched on a high seat in front and grimly drove along
at the terrific speed of about 15 miles per hour. Nowadays Rolls Royces, Rovers,
M.G’s, etc., race down the old High Street (often at speeds well over the
permitted 30 m.p.h.) and no one turns their head to look at them, but all stop
to stare if a tinker’s pony and float spanks along the New Yards with a
lurcher dog gliding along below the axle.
An
old inhabitant would also find great changes in the shops and would miss many of
the kenspeckle tradespeople and the manner of displaying their merchandise. No
longer do the long carts from "Castlehill" and "Balchriston"
unload barrels of newly dug early "Ayrshires", topped with green shaws,
at the grocers, to be displayed on the pavement at the shop doors, invariably
flanked by a keg of salt herrings. The townspeople could always be assured of a
cheap and wholesome dinner of tasty "new tatties and greentails" with
herrings fried in oatmeal, as Johnny McClure from Maidens would fill a housewife’s
apron with silver herring for a sixpence. Nowadays the potatoes are hygienically
packed in polythene bags, (and invariably taste of inferior soap) while the
herrings seems to have shrunk in size and grown in price. The merchants then
displayed many of their wares on the pavements at the shop doors, or hung them
on the walls, and it was often difficult to walk up the pavements for barrels
of potatoes, kegs of herrings, glass cases displaying large tins of biscuits,
with brushes, pots and pans hanging round the doors. If one had to step off the
pavement to get round such merchandise it really did not matter much as the most
one could fear was a horse breathing down one’s neck. Nowadays the pavements
are all bare of such impediments but one has to walk warily on the narrow
pavements lest a large lorry rushing past should be too close to the kerb and
spin one on to the street with the swish of its passing.
Sixty
years ago there were many grocers in the town but "Gibbie", "Haddy",
"Soda", "P.A.", "Hungry Archie", "Wattie"
and many others have all passed away and now the housewives depend mainly on
"The Store" and "Templetons" for their groceries with "R.A.O.’s"
as the last stronghold of the private grocers. Many shops are closed and it is
unlikely they will reopen as most of the townspeople do their shopping in Ayr.
This has naturally harmed traders in the town and it has affected the drapers
most of all as only McClymonts is left of the great number of drapers and
tailors such as Wright, Jackson, McCreath, McCubbin, Murray, Miller, Wallace,
Curran and others who clothed the folks of the town and district in the old days
before the first World War.
The
foot of the High Street would not be recognisable now to any old Minniebolers
who left the town at the time of the great "exodus". The grand new
Post Office stands where "Tup" Dobbie’s yard used to be,
"Doctor" Reid the chemist and "Willie" Burns the cycle
agent, are now nearly forgotten, with the small windows to their shops, and the
large bottles of blue and pink coloured water in "Doctor" Reid’s
windows and a Raleigh bicycle hanging from ropes above "Willie" Burns’s
door. "Haddy" Maitman’s and McGhee’s, the fruiterers is now a
coffee, room and bakers shop, while "Davie" Adam’s, Scott the
chemists and "Bob" Neil’s stationers shop is now one large plate
glass and chromium fronted showroom. The shop of "Cree" the baker,
famous for his ashet pies, has been displaced by a cafe; "Amos" has
passed away although his business is still carried on (one cannot get a plate of
delicious hot peas with lashings of "brae" now, however);
"Almonds" chip shop has disappeared and the boys of the present day
will never relish "a plate of chips and a bottle of Vimto" in the back
shop with the green lino covered tables and the sawdust on the floor. "Parafin
Oil" Bone, "Nellie McCulloch’s" and Thomson the plumber, are
now only memories and the site of their shops is now covered by a grand new
Supermarket. The "Hen’s Castle", Whitefords.
Battison’s,
McTaggarts, etc., are now only half remembered names to the older people and
entirely unknown to the younger generation, but before the first Word War these
were all tradespeople who supplied the townsfolk with all their needs from
silver teaspoons to paraffin oil and "sweeties for the wean".
The
shops at the top of the High Street are also all changed and "Cheenie"
McClymont’s, the "Spooncreel", the Buttercup and Eastmans, etc., are
now all gone and unknown to the younger generation but nostalgically remembered
by the older folks. To a returning wanderer the School Vennal would indeed be
strange as there is no "Daisy" Kennedy’s to slake one’s thirst, no
Miss Dinning to supply a fancy box of chocolates for the girl friend and no
window full of hazel nuts for the old black cat to snooze on in "Maggie
Rubbish’s". The old Post Vennal is also greatly changed and there is no
longer "Granny" Allan to dispense treacle yill or herb beer or "Francie"
to buy old clothes and rabbit skins, etc.
One
of the saddest changes to a Maybole man revisiting his hometown would be the
complete disappearance of "Dents" tobacco shop in the old
Spooncreel.
No boy who puffed at his first Woodbine under the iron steps of Buchty Brig can
ever forget "Dents". When the shop door was opened the sharp
"ting" of the bell above it always made one falter for a moment and
then one stepped out of a mundane world into a shrine to Lady Nicotine. Every
possible brand of snuff, cigarettes, cigars and tobaccos lined the shop shelves
and the indescribable aroma of tobacco pervaded the whole shop. Everything
seemed a hopeless mixter maxter but when asked for any brand of cigarettes from
Woodbines to Passing Cloud, any cigar from the finest Corona to the strongest
Cheroot, or any tobacco from the heavy Bogey Roll to the finest cut Havana the
"Old Man" (who never seemed to take his hat off) could unerringly put
his hand straight to the brand wanted. The shop was small (two customers
completely filled it) and, in memory, always dim, as the small window admitted
little light and the half-glass door none whatever, but the small mahogany
counter was so highly polished it gleamed like a pool of rich brown ale. The
counter was always covered with all manner of pipes from the common clays to the
magnificent meerchaums in their read velvet lined cases, with their bowls like
bows of graceful yachts. Lucky indeed was the man who could afford one of these,
to treasure and nurture it until it turned the colour of clear run honey and
became the envy of his fellow men. The showpiece on the counter was the brass
scales, so fragile in appearance and so symbolical of a tobacconist’s shop.
The small brass trays were polished until they gleamed with a lustre and depth
far superior to gold and the little brass round weights were ever carefully
marshalled and graded like soldiers in their little holes along the front of the
mahogany base of the scales. This was a true tobacconists where the scent of the
raw tobacco was much more titillating than the actually smoking of it. Today a
tobacconists is as bright and sterile as a dairy, with the tobacco in
hermetically sealed tins or polythene packaging. This may be more hygienic and a
sign of progress but the lads of today can never experience the thrill of
standing in the "Spooncreel" with noses twitching at the erotic scents
which somehow seemed to give added value to the penny packet of Woodbines which
was all a youth of a few decades past could afford to spend. "Dents"
was not just an ordinary shop to Maybole smokers, it was an institution and it
deserves more than a mere paragraph, but if ever its story is to be written it
can only be by the proprietor’s son,
Alan, who left his hometown many years
ago to cross the Border and became another famous Minnieboler who has made his
mark in the literary world.
To
the older generation the most striking change in the town must be the emptiness
of the High Street on a Saturday night. Fifty or sixty years ago it was thronged
every Saturday night up to about 10 or 11 p.m. and "Saunders" and the
other message boys with their big baskets could hardly press through the crowds
to make their last deliveries of the weekend’s messages. The. "message
boys" are now practically unknown in the town but fifty years ago they were
employed by all traders who prided themselves on giving every service to their
customers and messages were delivered to homes by those boys. They were a
cheerful lot and could invariably whistle like linties and every new song was
soon popularised by the whistling message boys who could unerringly pick out the
favourite tunes in a manner which would make modern "Disc Jockeys"
turn green with envy. Although usually small in stature the boys could cany huge
baskets of messages on their heads, with a round leather "scone" to
protect their shaggy pates, and these "scones" were grand missiles to
throw at other message boys from rival shops. While motor vans may deliver
messages more efficiently today the whistling and happy youths are much missed
by the older folks.
On a
summer evening everyone promenaded the High Street and had time to chat with
neighbours on the week’s events, watch "Smillie" with his jacket off
challenging all and sundry at the Pump, marvel at the dancing bear jigging round
a pole at the head of the Kirkwynd or listen to the German bands, which often
played in the town. At the foot of the street one could always count on seeing
the white pony from Abbeymill waiting patiently on its master returning from his
Saturday night’s outing, while Inspector Barbour, resplendent in his uniform,
would benignly watch the "drouths" winding home and instruct his
constables to see they got safely home to their spouses who would deal with them
much more firmly than any Bailie at court on Monday morning.
Nowadays
Maybole is a "ghost town" on a Saturday night, and one could fire the
proverbial shotgun up the High Street without endangering life. The miniskirted
girls and long haired boys are off to "the dancing" in Ayr or
somewhere else, the younger married people are away in their cars around the
country, many of the older women (and some men) are glued to their bingo cards,
and the remainder are staring at television or sitting in hotel lounges, and the
old High Street, which rang with laughter years ago, is now empty and desolate.
To the men and women who left Maybole half a century ago this would be the
greatest of all changes in their hometown and no doubt if they returned they
would miss the couthy country atmosphere, when time was of little importance,
and friends could gather to "ca’ the crack" on a Saturday evening
when the week’s work was over, and the husbands and wives would "daun’er"
up the street for the household messages and glean the news of events in the
district over the past week. Progress is not necessarily advancement in all
things and certainly progress in transport, roads, etc., has brought the happy
and friendly life in most small country towns to a standstill. The population of
the burgh has steadily decreased since the beginning of the century and in 1969
the figures given by the Registrar General showed there were only 4,548
inhabitants, but it is hoped the new trades will bring strangers to the old town
and that they, in time, will be proud to become true "Minniebolers".
There
are many other interesting facts and traditions relating to the old Capital of
Carrick which unfortunately must be omitted from these tales of the town but it
is impossible to deal with them all in one book. The history of over eight
hundred years cannot be condensed without many stories of fact and fiction being
left out, not because they are uninteresting, but from lack of space. No book on
Maybole has been published for over eighty years and indeed it is practically
impossible to obtain any of the old books written by the Rev. R. Lawson and his
predecessors as they are all out of print and it is hoped the foregoing notes on
events and people will be of interest to those who claim to be Minniebolers,
whether born or adopted.
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