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Maybole,
Carrick's Capital Facts, Fiction & Folks by James T. Gray,
Alloway Publishing, Ayr. First published 1972. Copyright ©
Permission for display on this site granted by David Gray. You may view
and download chapters of this book for personal research purposes only. No other
distribution of this text is authorized.
The story of this ancient Ayrshire town from its
early beginnings in the 12th century through its growth and
development until the nineteen sixties. A fascinating record of the
history of a town including a wealth of factual information on its
outstanding buildings growth of industry etc., the book also
gives an insight into the life of the community and townsfolk
themselves.
Table of Contents
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Chapter 19
PERSONALITIES
ACCORDING to some dictionaries a "personality" is defined as
"a person of distinctive character, outstanding among his fellow men".
If this be so Maybole has always had "personalities" among its
citizens, men who were outstanding for their ready wit, their distinctiveness in
dress, their eccentricities and that indefinable "something" which
sets a "personality" apart from the ordinary mortal who is born,
lives, dies and is soon forgotten. In the old town most
"personalities" are usually spoken of as "worthies" and what
better word can be used for persons whose memories are worth handing down
through the years. One of the greatest of the old worthies were John McLymont,
known to all as "Johnnie Stuffie" who lived about two hundred years
ago, and his droll sayings and queer manners have been retold from generation to
generation until even today there are few townspeople who do not immediately
visualise "The queer wee man wi' the simple air" when his name is
mentioned. So many tales have been handed down about him that he deserves a
chapter to himself in this story of Maybole.
The most prominent townsman in days gone past was Bailie Niven and when
dealing with the town's history about a hundred and fifty years ago it is
practically impossible to turn up any notes on matters relating to the town and
district where the bold Bailie's name does not appear. He was undoubtedly at that time "Lord God
of Maybole and Master of all the Lime Kilns in sight" as his manservant
once described him. He was a school-friend of Robert Burns, a banker and
merchant in the town, "Leader" of the council for many years, Laird of
Kirkbride, the only townsman to have a vote before the Reform Bill of 1832 and
at his unmourned death left over £100,000. As his coffin was lifted on to the
shoulders of the pall bearers one of the few spectators remarked: "Hoist
him up, he'll never be nearer heaven." He was a great miser and on the
occasions he was forced to have guests for a meal at Kirkbride or in the Bank
House in Maybole he would often be heard to say: "Wha's for cheese, I'm for
nane. Pit it bye Maggie." It is unfortunate that a man who was a genius in
business and undoubtedly did a tremendous amount of good for the town by his far
sighted, if ruthless, policies in Council should only be remembered for his
meanness and his pompous manners, but his success in business made him many
enemies and it is true that "the evil that men do lives after them, the
good is oft interred with their bones."
The town crier and court officer about the time that
Bailie Niven ruled from
the bench in the old Tolbooth was William Gordon and he was a well-known
character with a great sense of his own importance. One day he was going round
with the "Deid Bell" when he passed his son riding a donkey. "Weel,
Jock," he said as he passed. "I see ye're riding your brither."
"Man, faither," replied Jock, "I clidna ken he was yin o' yours
tae." He had a full sense of the importance of his office and once when
going about his business met Sir David Hunter Blair who, in the passing, asked
where he was off to on such a fine day. "Sir David," was the dignified
reply, "If I was to ask you where you were going you would say I was ill
bred." He was sent to Ayr on town business one summer day, and, having
walked to Ayr and back by the High Road, decided to slake his thirst in an
alehouse which was then in Slateford village. Having no money he sold his boots
to the publican, drank the proceeds, then starting home again was heard to remark to himself. "Step
fortit,
Gordon, if it's no' on ye, it's in ye."
Rab Bryce is still remembered in the town although it is over a hundred years
ago since he lived in a house at the foot of Coral Glen and gave his name to the
spot still known locally as "Bryce's Corner". He was a carter of
enormous size and great strength and loved to take part in any quarrel which
developed into fisticuffs, caring naught whose side he was on but purely for
the fun of it. He always wore a broad Kilmarnock bonnet and a gray jacket and
knee breeches and acted as a carrier for many of the local merchants. His horse
was always poorly fed and its harness old and rotten but Rab continually boasted
of its strength and prowess and once contracted to draw a caravan from Maybole
to Girvan. He harnessed his nag to the caravan, stepped to its head and urged it
on but as soon as the animal put strain on the harness it broke and Rab marched
off gaily leading the horse and leaving the caravan behind. When the bystanders
drew his attention to what had happened he remarked: "I teilt ye ma horse
was strong. It only needs a tinkers powney tae pu' that contraption."
A well-known clockmaker (whose clocks are now much sought after) had a shop
in High Street and was known to all as "Watchie Logan" early last
century. He travelled the district repairing clocks in the farmhouses and was
fond of a dram after he had done his work. On one occasion he was at West Enoch
attending to a clock when the farmer was over generous with his bottle and
"Watchie" left for home in a happy, but rather sleepy, condition. On
reaching the "Beggars Rest" he sat down and fell asleep and some of
the weavers who had been for a walk round the "Cross Roads" found him
snoring away completely oblivious to everything. For a ploy they put him into a
sack (he was a very small man) and carried him down to the back shop of a local
butchers where they told the butcher they had poached a deer on Mochrum Hill and
would let him have it for ten shillings. The butcher, anxious for a bargain,
paid over the money and the weavers made themselves scare as quickly as
possible, before the sack was opened. When the butcher untied the sack the cat
(or rather "Watchie") was out of the bag and the fun started, as
"Watchie" had sobered up and was indignant at his treatment while the
butcher felt that someone should repay him his outlay for the poached "deer". They both set off in search of
the weavers and finally ran them to earth in "Jimmie Edgar's"
well-known howif in Weaver Vennal, where they were celebrating their windfall.
The upshot of the matter was the appearance of "Watchie" and two of
the weavers in court the following morning on a charge of insobriety. The ten
shillings (a large amount in those days) had been spent while the question of
its repayment was discussed and the innkeeper was the only one who benefitted by the trick played by the weavers on poor "Watchie". For years afterwards the local wags delighted to walk
into the butcher's shop when customers were being served and loudly ask the owner if he would like to buy a deer.
About the beginning of the 19th century one of the kenspeckle figures in the
town was Dr. Hathon or "The Marquess of Blarney" as he was commonly called by all. He was a skilful
doctor but inclined, like many men of his time, to take a little too much to
drink, until some of his friends finally persuaded him to be a little more temperate. He made a resolution never to drink before
noon and managed to keep to this for some weeks until one day about 11 a.m. he met the farmer from
Attiquin on the
Street at the door of the Kings Arms Hotel. The farmer was due him a fee for his attendance on a sick member of his family and
took the chance to pay the doctor and to invite him into the Kings Arms for a
dram. The bold doctor hestitated for only a moment and then looking up at the
town clock declared, "Weel, it's hardly my time yet, but I'll mak' up for
it the morn". Once he attended a woman in childbirth when he was rather unsteady
and the husband remonstrated with him and told him he should not drink when he
had patients to attend and the doctor excused himself with the retort:
"I've had a dram, but I'm no' fu'. My Goad, man, naebody could face a job like this cauld
sober."
Another well-known practitioner was Dr. McCann, an itinerant Irish quack who
settled in Maybole and boasted he could cure every ill but "the rale
die". He was attending a woman in Kirkoswald one December day and the
patient railed and moaned there was no cure for her. "Deed, I canna cure
ye," said the Doctor, "but I think I can cobble ye up 'till March
comes in." He would never admit that any patient died when being treated by
him but protested that he had either been called in too late or the patient
hadn't followed his instructions. After examining a patient his invariable
remark was: "Ye're no' in a guid way but gie me sixpence and a bottle and
I'll mak' up something tae pit ye on your feet." A young man consulted him
and was told: "Ye're in a bad state but I can cure you. It'll cost you
ninepence though:" Dr. McCann travelled all over the district with his
quack medicines and begged lifts from anyone going his way. On one occasion he
returned to town on the front seat of a hearse which was returning from a
funeral in Kirkoswald and on being twitted about this pointed out he was a
suitable man for the front of a hearse, "For," as he said, "I'm
gey watery eyed." He made up all his own medicines from dandelions, dockens,
and other weeds and herbs and although it is doubtful that he was entitled to be
called "Doctor" the local people had great faith in his cures and
swore by his "six-penny bottles" which he maintained could cure
anything from cholera to consumption. In later life he was not able to gather
his herbs to make his potions and consequently his practice fell away and he
died in the "Poors House" about 1865.
Last century in 'Sinclair's Close there was a butcher's shop owned by a Thomas
McCall, who was a noted character, and some of his sayings have become byewords
in the town. He was in the shop one day when a lady brought him the news that an
heir had been born to him. "Dae ye tell me, noo," he asked. "It
is a man-child or a boy?" He had two daughters and he was wont to describe them as "the biggest is the
weeest" which
translated merely meant the oldest was the smallest. He was in the habit of
buying sheep in preference to cattle, which were much dearer, and when asked for a joint or a bit of pork he
would lean over the counter and confidentially ask the customer: "Wud ye no' hae a bit mutton insteed, wummin? It's a
gran thing tae pit beef intae a man."
Old Attie Hughes, who was the town scavenger and who
pronounced Bailie
Niven's epitaph "with the consent of the whole parish", was extremely proud of his position as a "burgh
man" working for the Council and considered no one could equal him with brush and shovel in clearing up the streets. As
he grew older the Council engaged an assistant scavenger and Attie was grieved
at the imputation he was no longer fit for his work and held his assistant in bitter contempt. "Ye see him" he would
declare, "Weel he micht dae for plain work, but for ornamental work like
sweeping roon a lamppost or afore Bailie Niven's door, why it's simply no' in
him." He was the bitter enemy of an old townsman named Kirkwood who used to
be given cast off clothes and occasional alms by a man who lived in Whitehall.
When Kirkwood died, Attic was sweeping the street in Whitehall when the
gentleman passed and asked about Kirkwood, mentioning he hadn't seen him for some time, and he had some clothes to
give him. "He's deid," replied Attic. "Dead !" said the gentleman. "Aye,
deid," crowed Attic,
"there's your great favourite for ye. Awa' an"never let ye ken".
"Burke" Morrow was a carrier in the town and with his
horse and cart had a steady business hauling fish from Ballantrae to Ayr station where they were despatched by train to Glasgow.
Many were the rumours that his loads often consisted of more than fish but no evidence could be found until one night "Burke"
was late with his load from Ballantrae and decided to put his cart in the yard of "Pat O'Hara" until the following morning.
Later that night a man, McLelland, who had been carousing in "Pats" (a public house at the foot of Kirkland Street) felt the
journey to his home was rather much for him, and seeing Morrow's cart with a
large sheet over it, crept under the sheet and slept soundly for an hour or two.
On wakening he realised his bed was a cart of fish and thinking he would like a
fresh herring or two for breakfast he climbed out and started to fill his
pockets. As he put his hand under the sheet to search for a nice big fish he
gripped the foot of a dead body which had been hidden under the mass of herring.
This quickly sobered him up and he immediately made off to look for the town
constable to whom he told his tale, but by the time they both got back to Pat's
Corner, the bold "Burke" was on the High Road to Ayr. He was caught up
with about the head of Lovers' Lane but on being searched no body could be found
and it was decided McLelland had not fully recovered from his spree and had been
"seeing things". Although the truth of this story could not be vouched
for the townsfolk decided there was never smoke without fire and Morrow was ever
after known as "Burke", as it was commonly believed he was a
bodysnatcher, and there are many points which lead one to think there may have
been some truth in the rumour. At this time it was common for the kin of those
recently buried to watch at night over the fresh graves in case the corpse was
stolen and sold to a doctor for dissection and a sentry box was erected in the
old cemetery to shelter the watchers. The backyard of "Pat O'Hara's"
inn was next to the old cemetery (the St. Cuthberts Road not being in existence
at that time) and it would have been easy to slip a corpse over the wall and
quickly store it under the fish in Morrow's cart. It was at this period the
local sexton was fined by the Council for digging up new graves and selling the
coffins although no reference was made as to the disposal of their contents.
Rumour had it that the doctor who lived at Redbrae (now Lumsdon Home) was keenly
interested in the dissection of bodies and before Morrow's cart was searched at
the top of Lovers Lane it had already passed Redbrae house where a body could
have been quickly dropped into one of the outhouses of the doctor's home. The townsfolk must have turned those facts over in their minds and felt
prevention was better than cure and if one examines the graves in the old
Kirkport cemetery it will be found that "thruch" stones and iron cages
which fully covered the lairs were greatly the fashion at this period. At any
rate Morrow ever afterwards rejoiced in the name of "Burke" and was
considered an authority on all matters pertaining to the disposal of the dead.
Mr. Galloway, who had an inn in Weaver Vennal, once erected a sign outside his
hostelry which read "Funerals attended to. Shrouds lent". Few knew
what a shroud was and Burke was asked to explain. "Shrouds," said he.
"Why, these are the cloths the hearse drivers tie round their hats at
funerals."
"Lunnan" Jimmy, a shoemaker in the Dangartland
(Drummellan Street)
received his nickname through the fact that in his youth he had travelled afar,
and had even once been in London, a fact which gave him a subject for
conversation for the rest of his life. He had gone by sea from Leith and as the
ship was sailing down the east coast of England a strange ship approached, and
the captain of Jimmy's ship came to the conclusion it was either a pirate or a
French ship, and he made preparations for a possible attack by it on his own
vessel. The passengers as well as the crew were given guns and swords but "Lunnan"
Jimmy refused them as he swore he was against bloodshed, being what was more recently known as a "conchie". He was
willing to help though and offered to "go down below and hand up the
ammunition". The two ships passed on their way, however, without engagement
and Jimmy came home to relate his experiences in the ship and in the city of
London. In those days a visitor to such a distant place received as much
adulation on his return as the men who now walk the surface of the moon. "Sturdy" Bain lived in Whitehall and was a merry shoemaker who spent
more time in the alehouse than on the cobbling bench. He was a great maker of
rhymes and once made a bet with Sandy Tannock, the fiddler, that he could make a
better verse about nothing than Sandy, who also prided himself on his turn of poetic
speech. The couple adjourned with some friends to the Red Lion Inn and finally
the judges agreed that "Sturdy" had won with the verse:
"On naething I'm compelled tae write, I see't as plain's winnock, The
merest naething ere I saw, Was Fiddler Sandy Tannock."
The farmer in Laigh Grange, like all good Carrick men, held family worship
every morning and evening, to which all the farm workers and any visitors to the
farm were invited. Laigh Grange seldom, if ever, changed his form of prayer and
many who attended the services could have taken the old man's place at the big
"ha' Bible". His opening lines of the evening prayer were invariably:
"Guid Lord, as the muckle black craw flees high but dirties laigh doon on
the stanes by the sea shore, whilk the tides wash away every twenty four hours,
so do Thee wash away our sins by Thy grace. Watch ower oor Belle that's awa' in
service,. Guid Lord, and keep her frae harm, but as for Jenny that's at harne
here, dinna bother aboot her as I'll mind hei mysel." There was no
vagueness in his requests as he asked for protection for his lass who was away
from home nor hestitation in his own responsibility to look after the daughter
still under his care and he was supremely confident he could "mind her
himsel."
At the curling matches on the Heart Loch in the long hard winters of last
century many of the town and district worthies gathered to enjoy the game, the
rich stew which always simmered in the pot at the side of the loch and of course
the dram which is as necessary to a curler as the whin brooms which were used at
one time to "soop" the stones over the "hog". Many stories
are told of "Lochiands", "High Grange", "Attiquin",
and many others who enjoyed the roaring game and the companionship of their
fellows when heavy frost made it impossible to work the land or carry out other outdoor work. On one occasion the
"Eglinton" match was being played at Maybole when the Earl of Eglinton took part and skipped his rink against a Maybole
rink which
included the worthy but hard swearing farmer from High Grange. Before the match this enthusiast was warned by
the club secretary to tone down his language, as not only was the Earl playing
against his rink, but the local minister was also playing with him, and this he
managed fairly well for a few ends. The Earl was playing extremely well that day
and High Grange grew more and more excited until, on the Earl delivering a fine
shot which took out a stone played by the Minister, he could contain himself no
longer and he threw his broom in the air and yelled at the top of his voice: "Wee! dune, by Goad, my Lord, ye're awa'
tae Hell wi' the minister". On another occasion a game was in session when the Marquess of Ailsa was skipping a rink and one of
his players imbibed rather freely so his Lordship decided to hide the whisky
bottle. The worthy curler on searching for it between ends was told the whisky
was finished whereupon he indignantly threw down his broom and declared,
"My Lord, whisky and curling gang thegether. If there's nae whisky there's
nae curling" and marched off the ice.
Hughie Nocher, an Irish gangrel settled in the town and lived for years by
selling crockery from a barrow from door to door, at the same time collecting
rabbit skins and he always described himself as a "fur and china
merchant". Falling on hard times, when he once took ill, he was forced to
spend some time in the Poorhouse, but on his recovery he left it and again
started up in business. On being asked how he fared during his sojourn in the
Poorhouse he bitterly complained that he was fed on porridge and ale and someone protested that surely he got bread and tea also. "Tay,"
he retorted. "Did ye say tay? Why you may as well look for holy water in
an Orange Lodge." Hughie was a strict Catholic and the deadly enemy of the
leader of the Orangemen, one James Kirkwood, who was nicknamed "King
William" until a large scab grew on his nose when he was rechristened "Lord Limpet". This worthy always took a prominent part in Orange
parades and at one such parade Hughie turned to a bystander and spluttered.
"Look at him. There he gangs wi' the Bible in his loof and he canna even
read it an' if he could he wadna'."
About the middle of last century one of the townspeople who was a joiner by
trade also carried out the duties of undertaker and sexton, and it would seem
the latter employments paid him best, as in his own words, he had "nae
materials tae buy". He seldom attended church but invariably sat on
"Jack's" dyke waiting on the kirk to skale when he would eagerly ask
"Onybody prayed for the day?" If the answer was in the affirmative he
would anxiously enquire: "Nigh unto daith?" and if the answer was to
his pleasing, he would produce his snuff box and reward his informer with a
pinch. He always presented his bill the day after the funeral as he maintained
it was easier to get payment from the bereaved "when the tears were in
their een." If trade was slack he would often lament: "I dinna ken
what things are coming tae. I hav'na turned a sod for weeks." On one
occasion he was speaking to an acquaintance about a person who was so ill his
life was despaired when he said: "Ah wed, it matters naething tae me. Hir
burial grun is in Kirkmichael." His interest in the funeral side of his
business became so much of an obsession with him that on one occasion when his
son met with a bad accident and was thought to be dying he was heard to mutter:
"Dear me, dear me! Oor Adam deeingan' I'll get naething for burying
him." Fortunately the son recovered and joined his father's business so in
all probability the position would be reversed and Adam would "get naething"
for burying his father.
The farmer in Daltammie (now Dalchomie) once advertised grazing to let for
cattle on the "Naps of Daltammie" and an applicant called at the farm
to look over the land before making an offer for the season's grazing. The
grazier was not impressed by the area to be let and remarked there was little
grazing for cattle on it, to get the reply: "There's maybe no' muckle grass for the
beasts but, man, they'll ha'e plenty o' water an' a gran' view." The
farmers in the district were all of ready wit and had a pawky humour which can
only be really appreciated when the stories about them are told in the local
vernacular. There are many tales of the kenspeckle figures of High Grange,
Attiquin, Trees, etc., who were all well-known personalities in the town and
district and the farmers were always called by the name of their farm and
seldom, if ever, were addressed by their proper surnames. One well-known farmer
was a great attender of local funerals and always wore an old fashioned high
tile hat with "weepers" tied round it. One day a local lawyer twitted
him on his old fashioned headgear and asked where he had got it. "Man,
Fiscal," was the reply, "It was a' that was left o' ma faither's
estate yince ye had dealt wi' it. "
When the town had two companies of Volunteers one was commanded by a Captain
Shaw and the other by a Major Logan, both retired regular army officers and both
a little jealous of each other. Once the Major dined with Captain Shaw and his
family and on being asked by an acquaintance what he had for dinner he replied:
"There were new shore potatoes but I couldn't get at them for the Shaws"
The bold Major quarrelled with a local dignitary over a verbal bargain they had
made and which the dignitary did not keep, excusing his withdrawal from the
bargain by pointing out it was not binding because it had not been written on
stamped paper. A short time afterwards both parties were in a company in the
Kings Arms Hotel when the defaulter happened to mention he was troubled with
dysentery and did not know what to take for it. "Take stamped paper, my
man," instantly observed the Major. "You know yourself there's nothing
more binding." The company commanded by the Major had the reputation of
having the best marksmen in the regiment and on being asked why this should be,
he pointed out that all the men were noted poachers. Major Logan was a keen
musician and a fine violinist but was very aggrieved when an acquaintance one day asked if the letter W.L.F. (West Lowland Fencibles)
on his uniform stood for William Logan Fiddler.
Funerals last century seemed to be rather convivial gatherings where the
whisky flowed more freely than the tears but near the end of the century they
became more sober occasions as is evidenced by a conversation the Rev. Mr. Moir
had with a mourner one day. By way of conversation he remarked to the mourner
that the old heavy drinking customs at funerals seemed to be dying out.
"Deed aye," was the answer, "a funeral's no' worth going tae
nooadays." Once the Rev. R. Lawson approached a parishioner and asked a
small favour, supporting his plea by mentioning he had officiated at three
weddings in his family. "Three weddings," replied the parishioner,
"that's nothing. Ye've been at three funerals tae." A story is told of
a woman going into a shop in the town and ordering two pounds of "biled ham
and two bottles of whisky." The shopkeeper's immediate reaction was to ask:
"Wha's deid?" as invariably the mourners were regaled with a dram and
a plate of cold ham at the tea always held after the funeral. Many townsmen made
a habit of attending all funerals in the surrounding villages, as they knew they
would get a refreshment and something to eat afterwards to refresh them before
they started homewards, and Crosshill funerals especially were a favourite with
the local worthies. A local minister noted this favouritism towards Crosshill
interments and on asking why from one of the regular "mourners"
received the reply: "Man a Crosshill funeral's better than a Kirkmichael
wadding."
It was not only last century, however, that personalities were commonplace in
the town and many have cropped up since the start of the 20th century and are
remembered by the townsfolk who will probably pass on tales of them to be
recounted in the years to come whenever Maybole people gather together to crack
about their hometown. Many remember "Ruggy Duggy" who was a great
walker and who once bet he could walk from "Stumpy" in Girvan to Maybole Town
Hall in two hours. He left
"Stumpy" one day at two o'clock and on reaching the Town Hall the
clock in the belfry showed the time as 4.35p.m. "Ruggy" looked up at
it and swore: "It's a damned lee. Templeton's pit it forrit on
purpose," thus maligning the poor clockkeeper whom he swore was in
"cahoots agin him". The youths of the town were the bane of poor
"Ruggy's" existence, and tormented him unmercifully, but their elders
always looked well after him and saw he did not want until his death in the
1920s.
"Wullie" McJanet was an able and skilful joiner whose great
distinction seemed to be that he was the most unkempt and unwashed man in the
town. He shuffled around in summer and winter, wearing a long coat fastened at
the neck with a safety pin, and his boots never knew laces. He was always in
demand, however, when a skilful piece of joinerywork was required and he was
always most temperate, never known to use bad language and his manners were
always impeccable. He was a bit of a recluse. But when he could be presuaded to
enter into conversation his listeners were invariably surprised that such a disreputable
looking man could converse with such fluency and knowledge on practically any
subject. Few townspeople were aware of the tragedy in his life which made him
lose heart and become what he was in later life. He was born in the district and
had been well educated, and became engaged to be married to a girl in Edinburgh.
His fiancee took ill a week before the wedding and died and was buried in her
bridal gown on the day and at the hour the marriage was to take place. "Wullie"
was so heartbroken he gave up everything, took to drink and tramped the country
for a time. Finally he pulled himself together, gave up drinking, learned the
trade of joinery and came to settle in Maybole where he lived until he died. He
was buried in a pauper's grave and when his effects were gone over by the Rev. D. Swan it was found he had a beautifully made cedarwood chest in which were
stored his wedding clothes together with white flannels, blazers, etc., that he had worn when he played cricket in his
happier days. His was certainly a case where people are inclined to judge
harshly when facts are not truly known.
One of the outstanding personalities in the first half of the present century
was undoubtedly the genial host of the Kings Arms Hotel, the redoubtable John G.
McCubbin, known to all as "the Provost" and to his intimates as
"John G.". He became owner of the Kings Arms Hotel after the death of
his father, Thomas McCubbin, who had taken over the hotel in 1881. It was then a
small country inn but Mr. McCubbin added an upper storey, built a hall and
stables and opened up an entrance to the "Back Road" to give easy
access to the railway station. On a sunny summer afternoon "John G."
was a ken-speckle figure leaning against the highly polished brass rail which
used to protect the window at the side of the hotel entrance, with his thumbs in
the armholes of his yellow waistcoat, his hat tilted down to shade his eyes and
a large cigar tilted at a Churchillian angle and placed dead centre between his
lips. He knew everyone, as everyone knew him, and his usual reply when anyone
halted to enquire how he was keeping was: "I'm no' complaining." His
great hobbies were breeding collie dogs and horses and he was often successful
in showing both all over the country. In his later years he devoted his energies
to training racehorses and his greatest success was when his horse "Craigenelder"
won the Adamhill cup at Bogside. He was fond of fox-hunting and had many good
hunters which he often raced at point-to-points and in steeplechases at Bogside,
Carlisle, Perth, Kelso, etc. He had a ready wit and often scored in an argument
with his pawky repartee and delighted in telling stories, many against himself.
One of his favourites was about the time he bought a horse from one of the local
farmers after a long tussle as to its price. After the bargain was sealed by the
usual handshake the farmer remarked the horse had two faults which he thought
the purchaser should know. "Two faults," quoth John G. "I'll soon cure them, what are they?" "Well,"
said the seller, "It's difficult to catch when it's running loose in a
field." "I'll keep a head stall on it," was the reply.
"That'll make it easier to catch. What's its other fault?" The farmer
looked at him and said: "It's no' worth a damn yince it's caught," and John G. ruefully concluded his story by admitting the farmer
was right about both points.
One day a local remarked on how well he was
looking and enquired as to his age when John G. proudly owned up to being over
seventy. "Man, but ye're fresh for your age," said the enquirer,
adding "but of course ye should be. Ye've never done any work in your
life." John looked along his cigar at his inquisitor and replied: "Weel
you've naething tae greet aboot. I never kept you oot o' a job." He took a
prominent part in the affairs of the town and district and was Provost from 1927 to 1936, during which period he was undoubtedly the
"Leader" of the council as Bailie Niven had been a hundred years
previously. He was always genial and unruffled, but firm in his convictions and
cared not a jot for any man. His ready wit was ever appreciated by even his
antagonists (and what Provost ever lived who did not have detractors) and "John
G." will always be remembered with affection by Minniebolers.
The medical men of Maybole have produced many characters who are affectionately
remembered by the townsfolk. Dr. Hugh Girvan will always be remembered for his
pawky and dry humour as will his father who was known as "The Old Doctor" to
distinguish him from "Young Doctor Hugh". He was a well known figure on his two barred bicycle, with his little black bag strapped
on the carrier, as he travelled around the district on his old machine. For a time he had a motor cycle with a
basket woven sidecar but he returned to his push cycle in his latter years. At
one time he was troubled by boys pulling his house bell at nights and he spoke
to his friend, Inspector Miller, about it who promised he would see it was put a
stop to. About a week later the Inspector met him and enquired if he was still troubled by the bell being rung by the boys and Dr. Hugh told him he had not
been bothered for a few nights. The Inspector promptly claimed honour for his
constables in putting a stop to the nuisance so quickly but was rather taken
aback when the Doctor quietly remarked: "You see, the night after I spoke
to you about it, the boys pulled the whole bell out by the roots and it won't
ring at all now!"
His father, "old Dr. Robert" once became greatly interested in
mesmerism and, on being twitted by a brother physician on the subject, wagered a
gill of whisky he could mesmerise the doubter. They both adjourned to the Kings
Arms, a gill was put on the table and Dr. Robert proceeded to make passes which
soon seemed to put his subject to sleep. The Doctor was delighted with his
success and went out to get some fellow townsmen to witness the sleeping man,
but as soon as he left the room the "victim" sat up and quaffed the
gill of whisky. This so incensed the mesmerist that never again did he practise
the art. Dr. McTyer and Dr. MacFarlane were fellow practitioners in the town and one
day "Dr. Robert" swallowed some poison by mistake and Dr. MacFarlane was immediately sent for, but on arrival he was so
upset he could do nothing and Dr. McTyer was speedily summoned. As Dr. McTyer
entered the bedroom where the poisoned patient was lying he found Dr. MacFarlane
sitting on a chair at the bedside being soothed by Dr. Girvan who looked up and
said: "McTyer, whether do you think it's MacFarlane or me has been pushoned."
Dr. Cowan and Dr. Valentine who both lived in the New Yards, were also typical
old fashioned and worthy country doctors, beloved by their patients and "skeely"
at curing all common ills, although Dr. Cowan, who was a brilliant man of
medicine, unfortunately died at an early age just before the first World War.
Dr. Inglis and Dr. Sandilands are still remembered by many of the older
generation who placed great faith in them and many are the tales told of them,
especially about the "wee Doctor" who was a notable figure in his long
scarf and raincoat driving around the countryside in his T Ford, with invariably a Borzoi or a
spaniel dog sticking its nose out of the back seat. He was a keen shot and loved
a day with the ferrets and a gun at the rabbits. One day he went shooting with
some friends at Burncrooks when one of his companions shot at a rabbit which
bolted down a hole. Thinking he had wounded it the sportsman knelt down and put
his hand into the burrow to try and pull it out. The Doctor, unaware of what had
happened, and being a little shortsighted, saw something moving amongst the
whins where the burrows were and let fly, with the result that his companion was
pelleted in the part which was most prominent as he was bending down. The rest
of the party were then treated to the spectacle of the doctor sitting on a stone
puffing at a cigar, with the wounded and indignant rabbiter over his knees,
picking out the shot with an old penknife and treating the scars with liberal
doses from his whisky flask, between times steadying his own nerves with sips
from the same flask. When the job was done the Doctor stood up and remarked to
his aggrieved companion: "There noo Willie you'll maybe no' sit easy for a
time, but you're aye fleeing about anyway so it'll make nae difference." On
one occasion in the Town Council, of which he was a prominent member for many
years, he crossed swords with a young councillor who grew more choleric as the
argument raged until finally the Doctor ended matters by declaring: "Sit
down, man. I brought you into the world and if you don't calm down I'm likely to
see you out of it."
The practitioners of old knew every patient practically from
birth, and were relied upon to cure everything from wee Jeannie's cough to
Grandpa's hoast. They were advisers, arbiters, father confessors, and confidants to all, travelling long distances in their
dogcarts or boneshaker cars and bicycles and very often were paid in kind with
a dozen eggs or a fowl or a pair of rabbits, and indeed very often not paid at
all, but they were a dedicated body of men and respected throughout the
community. Their successors are every bit as dedicated and respected today but
somehow in these modern times the demands of the National Health Services seem to
place a greater burden on them and some patients feel they are reduced to
cyphers on cards stored in surgeries instead of personal friends of their
doctors to whom they can unburden their woes. This is rather unfair to the
modern medical men who wish they could spend more time with their patients but
they are besieged every night, when surgery opens, with many who in the old days
would keep a cold until it was better but now feel that free health services
entitle them to full medical services for every minor ailment. No doubt many a
present day doctor sighs for the old days when life was at a slower pace and
"the doctor" had time to have a crack with his patient, soothe the
relatives and lift his half crown fee from the corner of the mantleshelf as he
went out.
At the latter end of last century and the beginning of this century one of
the great and powerful personalities in the town was the Rev. Roderick Lawson,
minister of the "Glen Kirk" for many years. He took a great interest
in local affairs, wrote many articles and poems on the town and district and was
the power behind the throne in local politics. He persuaded the council to
change many of the old street names unfortunately and it was he who was
responsible for the loss of century old names like Dangartland, Smithy Brae, New
Yards and Kildoup which became humdrum and commonplace streets now known as
Drummellan Street, St. Cuthbert's Street, Cassillis Road and Welltrees Street.
He was really the last of the old style parochial ministers and ruled his flock
with a rod of iron and if any were absent from kirk on Sunday morning they had
to have a very good excuse ready for him when he called on Monday to inquire as
to the cause of their absence. When he started his ministry in the town many of
the older generation had been married by the Scots style of proclaiming they
were husband and wife and had settled down to rear their families fully
confident of their marital status. This practice was not acceptable to the Rev.
Roderick Lawson and he persuaded most of the old couples to be married again with the blessings of the church, and often boasted
afterwards that he had "married half of Maybole". One old lady in
Weaver Vennal rather flummoxed him, however, when he pointed out to her that
although she was legally married in Scots style she was not married "in the
eyes of God", and that he would be glad to marry her and her husband again.
"Get married again," she said. "Na, na, I'd rather gat rid o'
him. Onyway I'd look a fule getting married at ma' time o' life an' me wi' seven
o' my aim and nine grandweans." This was one of the few occasions he did
not get what he had set his heart on and had to admit defeat.
Another well-known minister was the Rev. David Swan who came to the town as
assistant to the Rev. Mr. Porteus and stayed as minister in the Auld Kirk until his death some years
ago. He was a great walker and visited all his country parishioners on foot and
was often met on country roads tramping along with his flat crowned hat, his ministerial coat, strong leather leggings
above his heavy leather boots and a heavy stick in his hand. He always enjoyed
telling of the time he first preached a sermon in church and afterwards, keen to
know how he had fared, asked the beadle how he had enjoyed it. "Weel,"
replied that worthy, "There was no' much pith in it, but man, ye had a fine
genteel way o' setting it aff." He was noted for his liking for good food
and his ability to "clean his plate" and once he was visiting a farm
where he sat down to tea when a large "clootie" dumpling was set on
the table. One of the children sitting opposite complained: "Mither, I
canna see the minister ower the dumpling." "Gie him time,"
replied the farmer's wife, "He'll shune empty the plate an' ye'll see him
then."
Many other townsfolk have been outstanding in their wit, their style of dress or
their individual habits which set them apart from ordinary folks but they are
too numerous to mention, as Maybole seems to have been a town which produced kenspeckle figures in every
generation. They will live long in the memories of those who knew them, however, and in years to come will become household
names as Johnnie Stuffie is still remembered. Few who saw "The Gentle
Shepherd" bowling along the New Yards in his high wheeled gig behind the
"humpy backit" pony will ever forget him. "Wee Davie"
McCulloch will be spoken of by those who never saw him but have heard the
numerous stories about him told by the older folks. "Smiley", who used
to take off his jacket as he came out of "T.I's" every Saturday night
and challenged everyone to fight and Hughie Watson who tramped the country,
enlisted in seven regiments, deserted from six of them and was drummed out of
the seventh one, will live on in local lore. One well remembered townsman
attended all public meetings and usually had much to say on nearly every topic
under discussion. He once attended the annual meeting of a local society and in
a heated exchange with the chairman accused the society's committee of
"fugeling the books". The society took umbrage at this as they thought
they knew what their accuser meant and they approached a local lawyer on the
matter and asked that he be charged with slander. The lawyer (being a local man)
also thought he knew what was meant by the accusation and agreed to take
proceedings but when he got down to drafting the charge he discovered no
dictionary gave the meaning of the word "fugeling" and the matter was
dropped much to the merriment of all Minniebolers who have their own
interpretation of the word which is unknown, it seems, to compilers of
dictionaries.
"Tam" Tennant, in his half tile hat, and "Wee Tam" from
the "Grain Store", Inspector Miller, the stalwart and beloved
Inspector of Police, and "Kill the Pig" one of his predecessors were
all men of great personality. They gave a sparkle to life in the town in the
days before Burton's or John Collier forced on menfolk a standardised style of
dress which makes all men equal from a sartorial point of view but somehow seems
to kill any personality they may have hidden under their narrow lapelled
jackets. In bygone days a yellow waistcoat, a half tile, a cut away coat, or a velvet or astrakhan collar to a top coat seemed to give
the wearers that little touch of individuality which is so sadly missing among
the men of today.
One of the peculiarities of Minniebolers is the giving of
nicknames to
fellow townsmen and invariably anyone who is outstanding in anything, from
sport to poaching, is rechristened, but never in a manner which is hurtful or
derogatory and many townsmen answer to their nickname as readily as to their
Christian name. Thus instead of the ordinary Toms, Dicks and Harrys many
rejoice in such names as Jumper, Snuffle, Killarney, Jint, China, Lord Limpet,
The Crigger, Wumphy, The Doodler, Shirty, Sooty, The Sheik, Teerie, Soda, Haddy,
The Daisy, La-di-dah and other fanciful appellations. No person who is disliked or unworthy
of notice is ever given a nickname and the "personalities" who are
thought worthy of being thus singled out should indeed consider themselves above
the ordinary run of men. A "Jimmy" or "Johnny" usually
requires the addition of a surname to identify the person spoken of, but there
is never any doubt who is referred to when "Beau" or "Boss"
are mentioned.
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