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Maybole,
Carrick's Capital Facts, Fiction & Folks by James T. Gray,
Alloway Publishing, Ayr. First published 1972. Copyright ©
Permission for display on this site granted by David Gray. You may view
and download chapters of this book for personal research purposes only. No other
distribution of this text is authorized.
The story of this ancient Ayrshire town from its
early beginnings in the 12th century through its growth and
development until the nineteen sixties. A fascinating record of the
history of a town including a wealth of factual information on its
outstanding buildings growth of industry etc., the book also
gives an insight into the life of the community and townsfolk
themselves.
Table of Contents
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Chapter 24
ROBERT BURNS' ASSOCIATION WITH MAYBOLE
(See also
the Official Robert Burns Site)
"THERE is a purpose of marriage between William Burnes, Bachelor,
residing at Alloway, in the Parish of Ayr, and Agnes Brown, Spinster, residing
in Maybole, in the Parish of Maybole, of which proclamation is made .. ."
When these banns were "cried" in the old church at the foot
of the Kirkwynd in November, 1757, by the Rev. James McKnight (who in 1769 was
Moderator of the General Assembly) none of the douce Minniebolers in the
congregation that day could possibly know they were listening to the opening
lines of a drama which would take its place in Scottish history. The menfolk in
the congregation would, as usual, listen to the proclamation without actually
hearing it and the bonnets of the goodwives would nod together as much as to say
"A' well' she's got a man at last," it being common knowledge that
Agnes Brown had broken off a seven yeais' engagement with a local ploughman,
William Nelson, only a year earlier and now, at the age of twenty six, she was
about to be married to an older man of thirty six from the neighbouring
parish.
It was in Maybole that the parents of Robert Burns met, courted and married
and therefore the old town can claim a connection with him. Much has been
written about his birthplace at Alloway, his father, William Burnes, originally
from Kircardineshire (Clockenhill in the Means district) and his life from birth
at Alloway to death in Dumfries but little has been mentioned about his
connections with the old Capital of Carrick. Burns' mother lived in Maybole for
most of her unmarried life and one of his greatest schoolboy friends, William
Niven, lived in Maybole where Burns often visited him.
Early in the eighteenth century a William Rennie (or Rainy), who was a baker
in Ayr, decided to start a business in Maybole and he and his wife set up a
small bakery in the town. On 7th May, 1731, their daughter Agnes married Gilbert
Brown (born 1708) who was the son of John Brown, a farmer in Craigenton near
Kirkoswald and a tenant of the Earl of Cassillis. At the time of his marriage
Gilbert Brown was working as a forester on the estates of the Earl of Cassillis
and it is said he set up house with his bride at Whitestone at Culzean and local
tradition has it that their daughter Agnes was born there on 17th March, 1732.
Whitestone was situated about two hundred yards south of Balchriston Gate Lodge
at the entrance to the former Main Avenue to Culzean Castle. The gate lodge has
completely gone now and only part of the gable of Whitestone stands in the
wood-land at the south end of where the highway was straightened in 1965 to
improve an awkward corner near the entrance to the Wrack Road which leads to
Maybole shore. Shortly afterwards Gilbert Brown became joint tenant with his
father in Craigenton Farm and Agnes Brown lived on the farm until she was about
12 years of age. She was the eldest of the family and had four brothers and
three sisters when her mother died in 1742. Although then only ten years of age
she took over the running of her father's house and she was helped in this
difficult task by another girl, Ann Gillespie, who was only a year older than
her and who became the wife of John Davidson, the immortal "Soutar
Johnnie". Her mother on her deathbed had remarked to her sister, who had
come to visit her as she lay dying, that she was not sorry to be going from the
trials of this world and place at Alloway, his father, William Burnes,
originally from Kircardineshire (Clockenhill in the Mearns district) and his
life from birth at Alloway to death in Dumfries but little has been mentioned
about his connections with the old Capital of Carrick. Burns' mother lived in
Maybole for most of her unmarried life and one of his greatest schoolboy
friends, William Niven, lived in Maybole where Burns often visited him.
Early in the eighteenth century a William Rennie (or Rainy), who was a baker
in Ayr, decided to start a business in Maybole and he and his wife set up a
small bakery in the town. On 7th May, 1731, their daughter Agnes married Gilbert
Brown (born 1708) who was the son of John Brown, a farmer in Craigenton near
Kirkoswald and a tenant of the Earl of Cassillis. At the time of his marriage
Gilbert Brown was working as a forester on the estates of the Earl of Cassillis
and it is said he set up house she was leaving her children to the care of God
as her husband Gilbert would soon get another wife. This prophecy was soon
fulfilled for two years after his first wife's death, Gilbert Brown married
again, and indeed after the death of his second wife married for the third
time.
On the marriage of her father to his second wife, Agnes, who had worked so
hard to keep the family together, was no longer needed at Craigenton and she
left and went to stay with her grandmother, Mrs. Rennie, in Maybole, which
became her hometown for the next thirteen years. Prior to her mother'.; death
Agnes had been taught to read a little by a weaver in Kirkoswald but never
received any tuition in the other two R's and knew nothing about arithmetic and
could never write even her own name. This accounts for the fact there are no
relies of any letter by Burns' mother but it is strange that such an inveterate
writer as her son should never have written to her (at least there are no
records of any such letters) or written a single line of poetry mentioning her.
Neither is there any record of Burns ever visiting his maternal grandfather at
Craigenton Farm although he lived in Kirkoswald for a time when he went to
school there in his seventeenth year and Craigenton is only about two miles from
the village. Probably the fact that his grand- father married again, and his
mother was more or less cast out to live with her grandmother in Maybole,
embittered Burns against the Browns. Differences between members of families
were as common in his day as they are nowadays.
When Agnes Brown moved to Maybole in 1744 she lived with her grandmother for
some years and then became housekeeper to her paternal uncle, William Brown, who
was a widower and who also lived in the town. Her grandfather, as well as being
a baker, worked a small piece of ground near Maybole, (which was a common
practice at that time) and had a man, William Nelson, to do the ploughing and
odd work on the land. Agnes became acquainted with William Nelson and in 1749
they became engaged to be married. The engagement dragged on for seven years,
which was an unusually long time in those days, but possibly Agnes did not wish
to leave her widowed uncle to fend for himself. The seven years' engagement
proved too much of a strain on William and in 1756 he became involved with
another local girl who had his child and Agnes broke off her engagement. Shortly
afterwards at the annual fair in Maybole she met her future husband William
Burnes and the traditional site of this meeting is marked by a bust of the poet
over a building near the bottom of Maybole High Street where it is said the fair
booth stood at which they met. At this time William Burnes had been paying court
to a girl at Alloway Mill and it is believed he had written a letter to her
proposing marriage but had not plucked up enough courage to send it to her.
After meeting Agnes Brown he transferred his affection to her and burned the
letter to the Alloway Mill lass. After a few months' courtship, when no doubt
William paid many visits to Maybole, the couple became engaged and were married
on the 15th December, 1757, the bride being twenty six years old and the groom
ten years older.
After the marriage the couple took up home at Alloway and from thereon
their life has been an open book to all, but few have mentioned that very
probably many visits were paid by them and their children to Maybole to visit
Agnes' grandmother with whom she had lived for so much of her unmarried life. It
is understandable she would not often visit her father's home where a stepmother
would probably not be too welcoming, but as Alloway is only five miles from
Maybole no doubt the proud mother would visit her granny and childhood friends
to show off her children, as all mothers do, and it can be assumed that Robert
Burns in his very youthful years was often brought to the old town.
When Robert Burns was seventeen years old his parents decided to send
him to a well-known school in Kirkoswald where the headmaster, Hugh Rodgers, was
noted as a teacher of trigonometry, land-mensuration and sun-dialling. Robert
had shown a great liking far education and his father was anxious that every
opportunity should be given him. The fact that he could send his son at the age
of seventeen years to a school to learn mensuration, etc., should surely explode
the myth that Robert Burns was a poor ploughman and his folks were in straitened
circumstances. At that time country boys usually started work about ten or
twelve years of age and whatever schooling they may have had was finished, and
probably forgotten, by the time they were seventeen.
During his son's formative years William Burns did everything possible
to see he was given as good a schooling as possible and indeed in May, 1765,
along with four neighbours started a school in Alloway, bringing a young lad of
18 years to tutor their children. Robert Burns did not attend this school long
enough to gain much knowledge but undoubtedly he got his love of books and
desire to further his education from his first tutor. This love of learning came
to Burns not only from his father but from his father's father as he (Robert
Burness) joined with some neighbours to build a school and employ a tutor on the
farm of Clockenhill which is thought to have been the first school built in the
Mearns district. It is not surprising therefore, with such a father and
grandfather, that in the middle of the second half of the eighteenth century,
when schooling in country districts was practically negligible, that Robert
Burns should be sent to board at Kirkoswald and attend a school where such
persons as the famous physician Sir Gilbert Blane (who discovered the cure for
scurvy) and Sir Andrew Cathcart of Carlton were taught. The boarding of the poet
at Kirkoswald was not a difficult matter as his mother's brother, Samuel Brown,
lived at Ballochneil about a mile south of Kirkoswald Village and it was
arranged Burns should stay there during the summer of 1775 when attending Hugh
Rodger's school. The cottage in which Burns lodged is now a ruin with only part
of the gables standing at the rear of Ballochneil Farm Cottages, on the farm of
Park, about a mile south of Kirkoswald on the road to Turnberry.
On the same day that Burns entered the school at Kirkoswald another
pupil also enrolled and a friendship sprang up between the two youths. The other
pupil was William Niven, who was born in Maybole in February, 1759, (a month
after Bunts' birth) and he was the son of David Niven a well to'do merchant and
Magistrate of the town. William Niven had just completed a course of classical
studies in one of the schools in Maybole (of which there were quite a few at
that time) but his father felt he should learn more about arithmetic, etc., to
help him when be became a partner in his father's business in Maybole.
During his schooling at Kirkoswald it is believed that Burns went
nearly every weekend with Niven to his home in Maybole and stayed there from
Saturday till Monday morning when they would both walk the four miles to
Kirkoswald before school began. Burns therefore must have known Maybole well at
this period of his life but naturally the townsfolk would never dream that the
young lad who was such a constant friend of Bailie Niven's son, and who would be
in many ploys in the town, as all young men were in these days as well as
nowadays, would after his death, a short 20 years later, be immortalised as
Scotland's National Poet.
After Burns left the school at Kirkoswald he corresponded with his
schoolmate for the rest of his shbrt life. Indeed it is said that his
"Epistle to a Young Friend" was originally addressed to William Niven
but as the Poet had become aware that "his early companion was pervaded
with the single idea of how to become rich (or rather remain rich and become
richer) he changed his original intention of connecting the effusion with the
name of Niven." The two men were so opposite in nature it is understandable
that, although Burns always retained a certain amount of friendship for his
schoolmate, in later years he had certainly no deep affection for him and
undoubtedly Niven's love of wealth was the cause of their drifting apart.
The Poet and William Niven, however, regularly corresponded after their
schooldays and when the first edition of Burns' poems was printed by John Wilson
in Kilmamock in 1786 Niven undertook to sell some copies among his Maybole
friends. The cost of a copy (3/-) was quite a lot to pay for a book of poetry in
those days (about half a week's wages) but Niven managed to sell seven copies,
presumably to some townspeople, and it is unfortunate for the descendants of the
purchasers that none of the copies seem to have survived as they would fetch a
great price today. Perhaps some fortunate Minnieboler may yet unearth a copy
among the old and forgotten things so often stored away in the attics of the
older houses in the town. In August, 1786, Bums came to Maybole from Mossgiel to
collect the money for the seven copies of his poems and stayed the night with
Niven's parents. A party of the poet's admirers (probably the purchasers of the
books, among them being Hugh Podger his old Kirkoswald schoolmaster) met in the
Kings Arms Hotel that evening and spent a most convivial night.
The following morning Burns hired a riding horse to take him back to
Mossgiel and it would seem he had arrived in Maybole the previous day on foot or
had begged a lift from some carrier taking goods to the town. As William Niven's
father had carriers bringing merchandise to his shop in Maybole from all
districts of Ayrshire, it is probable Burns arranged his visit to fit in with a
delivery of goods from the Mauchline district. The hired horse must have been
past its best as Burns later described it as a beast that could only "hoyte
and hobble and wintle like a Sawmont cobble." At that time (and for decades
afterwards) it was a common practice for the Maybole men to say farewell to
their visitors by walking with them to the milestone near the top of the Lovers'
Lane and Niven and some other members of the party of the previous night
arranged among themselves to go to this milestone and wait on Burns as he rode
to Ayr before saying their goodbyes. Between them they composed a doggerel about
the previous night's carousel and when Burns appeared on the old horse they
recited their poem which Burns listened to with great patience. He was not
greatly enamoured with their effort, however, and when the long and lamentable
farewell was finished he remarked it would only have been necessary to say:
"Here comes Burns on Rosinate
She's damned puir, but he's damned canty."
This is the last factual record of Burns visiting Maybole and on his
returning to Mossgiel he wrote to his friend William Niven on 20th August, 1786,
thanking him for the hospitality shown him and asking to be remembered to the
people with whom he had spent the evening. He referred to "spunky young
Tammy" (Thomas Piper, assistant to Dr. Hugh Logan in Maybole) also Mr.
Dunn, a schoolmaster in the town, and particularly to "the two worthy old
gentlemen I had the honour of being introduced to on Friday, although I am
afraid the conduct you forced on me may make them see me in a light I would
fondly think I do not deserve." In the letter he paid his respects to Mr.
and Mrs. Niven who had been his hosts during his visit and stated that he had
been so busy on his return to Mossgiel that he had not been able to fulfill a
promise made to his school friend but asked William to remember the old proverb:
"The break o' a day's no the break o' a bargain" and to have patience
and the matter would be settled. What the promise was and if it was ever carried
out is unfortunately unknown. Burns went on to write that every one of his
Maybole friends was welcome to a copy of his songs but they were not to be
"blazed among the million as I would abhor every prentice mouthing my poor
performances in the street."
Although possibly the Poet would again visit Maybole from time to time (at
least before he went to Dumfries which was a distant part in those days) there
is no record of any such visits but it can be truly said that the old town has
many associations with our national poet and the chance meeting of William
Burnes of Alloway and Agnes Brown at the booth at the bottom of the High Street
in 1756 was the real beginning of the immortal story of Robert Burns.
Maybole can also claim connection with another Scottish poet. The
parents of the famous William McGonagall,. "the world's worst poet",
lived in Maybole for many years and all their family, excepting William, were
born there. They moved to Edinburgh and William was born three months after they
left Maybole.
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