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Maybole,
Carrick's Capital Facts, Fiction & Folks by James T. Gray,
Alloway Publishing, Ayr. First published 1972. Copyright ©
Permission for display on this site granted by David Gray. You may view
and download chapters of this book for personal research purposes only. No other
distribution of this text is authorized.
The story of this ancient Ayrshire town from its
early beginnings in the 12th century through its growth and
development until the nineteen sixties. A fascinating record of the
history of a town including a wealth of factual information on its
outstanding buildings growth of industry etc., the book also
gives an insight into the life of the community and townsfolk
themselves.
Table of Contents
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Chapter 16
SOCIAL ACTIVITIES
MANY city dwellers
have a fixed belief that life in a small rural town must be dull and monotonous
and its inhabitants inquisitive busybodies, but nothing could be further from
the truth. In a small community everyone knows everyone else and what a stranger
might think inquisitiveness is really just interest in each other. This may seem
strange to anyone reared in a large city where neighbours can live next door to
each other for years and never get beyond passing the time of day when they
meet, but it is natural in a close knit small community where, if ancestry is
traced back far enough, it is found most of the population are related to each
other in some way.
Naturally people
with the same interests gather together and societies or clubs are formed where
they can meet and indulge in common activities. In a small town all amusements
must be organised by the local people and folk will join together to start
choirs, drama clubs, guilds and other activities to give them an interest and
outlet for their energies. This was more true in days gone past, when small
towns were more isolated and more dependent on their own people for
entertainment and recreation, but even today it is surprising how small towns
and villages still have thriving drama clubs or concert parties and the W.R.I.
and church guilds have full memberships of ladies in all country districts.
Maybole has always
had many local guilds and clubs where people could meet, especially in winter,
to share common interests and while away the dark winter nights, before
television became a must in every household, greatly to the detriment of the old
social gatherings. Many Minniebolers have happy memories of winter evenings at
the socials in the various church halls where happy hours were passed listening
to Willie Miller singing "Ae fond Kiss" or Bob Strachan and Jeannie
Manson rendering "The Crookit Bawbee". Happiness was a simple thing in
those uncomplicated days before people were brain-washed and told what they had
to accept as entertainment. The kitchen sink was left behind in its proper place
and not brought on the stage and folks could dream away an hour or two listening
to their ain folk singing the old nostalgic songs which they had known from
childhood.
The first societies
in Maybole were probably the Guilds of the Masons, the Wrights, the Weavers and
the Shoemakers and while these were originally trade guilds they gradually
became more social in character. The Shoemakers Guild held its meetings in a
house in School Vennal and before it finally became defunct (about the end of
last century) it was purely a social club where the soutars of Maybole could
spend a few hours away from their wives and weans, much as the more
sophisticated men's Clubs in larger cities give refuge to the busy executives
today. The Wrights and Weavers Guilds in the town became obsolete much earlier
than the Shoemakers but the Masons continued to exist by changing from an
operative to a non-operative guild of "Freemasons" and two Lodges
flourish exceedingly well in the town to this day.
In 1799 or 1800
(the exact date is not known) the first Orange Lodge in Scotland was founded in
Maybole when the soldiers of an Ayrshire Militia Regiment returned from service
at the Irish Rebellion of 1798. In 1929 the Grand Orange Lodge of Scotland, in
honour of Maybole being the birthplace of Orangism, created a new lodge in the
town with the name Loyal Orange Lodge No. 0 and this lodge, as the oldest in
Scotland, has the honour of carrying the Union Jack on their parades. Records
show that nearly all organisations in the town up to the present century were
all male in character but a change came after the first World War and the
Maybole laides gradually took over and infiltrated into social life to such an
extent that the main activities of the town are now to a great extent (if not
wholly) petticoat ruled. Bailie Niven would have been horrified if it had been
suggested a lady should sit in Council, far less become Provost of the Town, but
times have changed and, it must be admitted, much for the better.
In 1922 in the
Orange Hall in Dailly Road the first meeting of the L.L.O.L. No. 98 John Knox's
Daughters of the Covenant was held and the local Orangemen are now partnered by
their womenfolk on the 12th July, whilst the members of the Eastern Star now
hold their own meetings as a female branch of the still zealously guarded all
male Brotherhood of Freemasons. Ladies now sit in the Council Chamber, the
Education Committee, the Juvenile and Magistrate Benches and the only stronghold
not yet breached is Kirk eldership and it may not be long until some fine day
the bread and wine will be offered by a strapping Hebe instead of a funeral like
figure in white bow and black coat.
In 1883 the Boys
Brigade movement was founded and it was not long until Maybole had its own
company which was formed in 1898 by the Rev. Thomson, ably assisted by Sergeant
Stewart, the first drill master. The local company was registered as the 16th
Ayr (Maybole) Company and in 1948 was presented with Company Colours by the
Women's Guilds of the West Church and Old Church to mark their Golden Jubilee.
In 1929 the Junior branch of the Boys Brigade was founded and again Maybole was
not long in forming its own company of Life Boys in 1936. A year after Baden
Powell founded the Boy Scout movement in 1907 four Maybole youths under Patrol
Leader John Muir formed the "Kangaroo" Patrol with its meeting place
at "Auld Jean's" at the Greenhead. The Troop was registered as the
12th Scottish Troop but undoubtedly would have been given a lower number if
there had not been difficulty in getting a Scout-master, which delayed
application for registration in London, and Maybole can truthfully claim to have
one of the oldest Scout Troops in Scotland. In the years before the first World
War the Scout movement was very strong in the town and many of the older men can
well remember Scoutmaster Simcox teaching them to form a "sheepshank"
or how to "brew up" in a billycan over a camp fire with a piece of
stick in the "billy" to keep the tea from being "smeeked".
In 1922 two packs of Wolf Cubs (a junior branch of the Boy Scouts) were formed
in the town and the Scout and Cub movement is still strong and well supported by
the youths.
In 1911 Miss
Strain, of Cassillis House, formed the first Girl Guide Company in the town and
was Captain of the Company for many years. After the formation of the Boy Scouts
in 1908 many of the girls wished to become "Girl Scouts" and it was to
meet their demands that Miss Strain formed the 1st Company of Maybole Girl
Guides which has flourished ever since its formation nearly sixty years ago. In
1926 the Brownies were recruited among the younger girls of 7 to 11 years, being
named after the "wee folk" of Orkney with the motto "Lend a hand
and play the game" and this junior company of girls proves a fertile source
of recruits for the Girl Guides.
There has been for
many years a strong Red Cross Detachment in the town and in 1943 a Junior Red
Cross Detachment was formed to encourage young girls to train for the Nursing
Services and to help the local Detachment in wartime. About the same period a
Girls Training Corps, with a senior and junior section, was formed to train
girls to share responsibilities in time of National Emergency and also an Air
Training Corps to train boys for entry to the R.A.F. but these junior
organizations, although well supported in wartime, naturally have not flourished
in peacetime as have the Boy Scouts and Girl Guides. In 1933 a Girls'
Association was formed under the auspices of the Women's Guild of the Church of
Scotland and altogether it can be said the youth of Maybole is well served with
various social organizations.
Maybole people have
always had an ear for music and enjoy it in all forms from brass bands to male
voice choirs. In the latter part of the 19th century a "Christie Minstrel
Society" flourished and gave many concerts in "Jack's Hall". It
was composed wholly of local men who blackened their faces, wore oversize bow
ties and straw hats and delighted their audiences with the "Campdown
Races" and the quips of their "corner men". It was all the craze
at that time to have "nigger minstrel" groups and Maybole was never
behind the times. Nowadays such happy bands of minstrels would probably be
charged with being anti-racial, would be ordered to wash the burnt cork from
their faces and no doubt would be prohibited from singing "Scots Wha Hae"
and damnation to the English.
At that period
there was full employment in the town and many concerts were held in
"Jack's" Hall, "Wyllie's" Hall, "Turnbull's" Hall
and the Town Hall, where Harry Lauder, J. M. Hamilton, Nellie McNab, W.O. Frame
(The Man You Know) and many other famous Scottish artistes appeared and it is
said Harry Lauder's fee for his first appearance in "Jack's" Hall was
five shillings, from which he paid his own expenses. Many of the townspeople
were excellent musicians and singers and got up concerts where local talent
filled the bill and few of the older citizens will ever forget "Da"
Livingstone bringing the house down with his renderings of "Brown was
paralytic, so was I", or "The Brick came down, we had a half a
day".
During the first
World War, Miss Mary Brannan, a local school-teacher, organized many concerts to
raise money for the war effort, where she, like a local Florrie Ford, led the
audiences in spirited choruses of old songs and invariably gave her own
inimitable rendering of "The cows are in the clover, they've trampled there
since morn, Go and call them Maggie to the old Red Barn".
For years there was
an excellent Male Voice Choir in the town, which won many trophies in
competitions throughout the west of Scotland, and it is said the bass section of
the Maybole Choir was unequalled throughout the country. Many of its members
were excellent soloists and although the choir no longer exists some of its
members still entertain the guests at local Burns' Suppers, etc. Fortunately
many of the younger people still show an interest in music and the School Choir
at Carrick Academy often bring trophies back from competitions they enter. It
may be that in the not too distant future Maybole may once again have choirs to
boast about and to listen to with enjoyment in the Town Hall as no doubt people
will tire of canned music from the radio and television and wish to hear their
ain folk sing the old songs as they did in years gone by.
From the early part
of the 19th century Maybole always had a silver or brass band to entertain the
local people on a summer evening in the Town Green or on New Year's morning when
the bandsmen paraded the streets to the sounds of "A guid New Year tae ane
and a'." There was a brass band, known firstly as the Maybole Carrick Band,
then the Carrick Instrumental Band and finally the
Maybole Burgh Band and it was
in existence, with short lapses through lack of bandsmen, for well over a
hundred years. In 1867 the band instruments were taken from the local bandsmen,
because they would not attend practices, and given to the Volunteers who formed
a band among its members, and although for a time it was factually a military
band it was always considered the Maybole band.
About the turn of
the century the instruments were returned to the Council and the
Maybole Burgh
Band came into existence before the first World War. It won many competitions
under the leadership of
Mr. Shaw, the Bandmaster, and played in the town and
district for many years until, again through lack of young people attending
practices, in the 1950s the Council took over the instruments and stored them
away and the town was left without a band. It was hoped some townsmen interested
in band music would come forward and another band be formed but this was not to
be and, as the instruments were deteriorating in storage, the council sold them.
By coincidence the council purchased scarlet and ermine robes for the Provost
and Bailies about the time the instruments were sold and it was the ribald
belief of many ratepayers that the council had robbed the band to robe their
civic heads and that it was the sale price of the big drum which went to buy the
Provost's cocked hat. Whatever be fact or fiction, the fact is Maybole has no
band nowadays while it is no fiction that the Provost and Bailies have scarlet
robes and cocked hats.
For many years the
Orange Lodge had a flute band which delighted to plague the local Roman
Catholics with "Boyne Water" every twelfth of July but it has also
passed away and never again will the Minniebolers be treated to the
unforgettable spectacle of "Dickie" in his orange jersey, limping
along and banging the big cymbals with unholy delight and absolute disregard for
the tune being played by the other members of the band. Once when reproached by
the bandmaster, who pointed out the drum should give the beat for the music, he
replied, "The drum! Man, it only gangs "Thump-Thump" while I go
"Clang-Bang". Let them tak' their time frae me."
Although the brass
and flute bands are gone, but not forgotten, the town is still fortunate to have
an excellent Pipe Band and long may the hearts of the townspeople beat more
quickly as its kilted members swing down the High Street in their bright tartan
to the skirl of their pipes. Pipe Major Boyd was the main person responsible for
keeping it going for many years and he was personal piper to President
Eisenhower whenever he came to reside in his Scottish home at Culzean.
Dancing has always
been a favourite activity of the townspeople and every opportunity is taken to
indulge in it, especially in wintertime. In days gone past balls were held in
the "Dancing Room" in the old Tolbooth above the town gaol and many
happy nights must have been spent there with the dancers setting and linking to
the lilt of the fiddles. When the Town Hall was built it provided a much larger
hall for dancing and the nights of the great Balls of the Yeomanry, the Masons,
the Bowlers and Quoiters became annual events. Invitations to these balls were
eagerly sought after and the dancing classes of Mr. McQuiston, Mr. Galloway and
Mr. McCulloch were always well attended by the youth of the town preparing
themselves to take their place in the Grand March, which always opened a Ball in
the old days before the first World War. It was necessary to learn the proper
steps of the Lancers, the Petronella, the Waltz Cotillion and other favourite
dances and most of the older generation have at some time or other attended
"Galloway's Class" to be put through their paces and be rapped by his
fiddle bow if they got out of step. Those were the days of dancing pumps and
white gloves for the gentlemen and long graceful frocks for the ladies and, of
course every man had to take a partner. Little dance cards (with pencils on a
silk string) were provided and it was a point of honour that each lady's card be
filled with the initials of her partners for the whole programme and there were
few, if any, wallflowers, as the Master of Ceremonies made sure that the men did
not hang around the hall door but did their duty nobly by dancing with the
ladies. A gentleman would give his partner the first dance, the supper dance and
the last dance and dance with other partners for the rest of the evening, as it
was simply not the "done thing" to dance all night with one partner.
The old Town Hall was a festive and happy place when the Yeomanry men led off
the Grand March in their dress uniform with bumishers gleaming on their
shoulders and everyone eager to be up for every dance until the last waltz at
three o'clock in the morning when cups of soup would be served and the gallants
would escort their ladies home. After the end of the First World War the
returning soldiers held a Ball, which was one of the highlights in the town this
century and is still remembered with nostalgia by all who attended it. The days,
or rather nights, of the great "Balls" have gone, however, to be
replaced with "Saturday Night Hops" where girls go by themselves in
many cases, with the hope of finding partners or, if they are unlucky, spend the
evening dancing with each other. The older generation may be "squares"
in the eyes of youth but the young people of today miss much of the courtesy and
pleasure their elders enjoyed.
Naturally with
their love for dancing and their ear for music the townsfolk formed many band
groups some of which were in great demand to play at dances all over Ayrshire
and indeed in some of the Glasgow dance halls. In the days of the "Dancing
Room" in the Tolbooth the music was provided by a lone fiddler although
often different musicians would take it in turn throughout the night's revels as
it was quite common to dance until around five o'clock in the morning, and a
solitary "Music Makar" would find it hard to stand up to the strain.
Sandy Tannock was the best known fiddler at such functions and it is recorded
his fee for playing at a dance was one shilling, which was increased to eighteen
pence if he played "till morning". By the end of last century,
however, dance bands consisting of violin, flute, cornet and piano had been
formed and "Tot" Watson and his partners were in constant demand at
dances' all over the district. "Kirns", or dances held in farm barns
at the end of the harvest time, were common, and lone fiddlers in the town were
kept busy in September and October supplying music for the hardy country folks
who started with "Strip the Willow" about 8 p.m. and would finish with
a reel about milking time the following morning. The older folks who have
sedately waltzed at a Yeomanry Ball or "hooched" the night away at a
"kim" at Cultizeoun can never hope to understand the modern style of
dancing where it seems that everyone stands and gyrates on one part of the dance
floor about two yards away from their 'partners, with mournful expressions and
at no time giving the impression that dancing should be a graceful and happy
pastime.
Through time the
composition of the dance bands changed and saxophones became the predominant
instruments and between the two world wars "Jock" Paterson's band was
in great favour and played at Turnberry Hotel when any big function was held
there. Then accordions took pride of place, in turn giving way to the guitar
which seems to be the favourite instrument in all bands at the present time. The
Maybole dance band enthusiasts always kept up with the modem trends and were in
great demand, and "Mackays" band played throughout the whole of the
west country, being noted for its excellent performance and rhythm.
Although the nights
of the great balls have passed and the lilt of the violins have given way to the
strum of electric guitars there are still groups in the town who keep pace with
modern dancing trends and travel afield to play for the enjoyment of the modern
youths and it is good to know that the townsfolk still have the love for dancing
and music which has been characteristic of Minniebolers for generations. It is
of interest to note that a Maybole lad,
Tommy McQuater, who started as a young
cornet player in the local brass band became a member of a world famous
orchestra and he can truly be said to be the town's most noted musician in the
dance band world.
Maybole never
lagged in introducing new types of entertainment and just before the first World
War the cinema was brought to the town by Mr. Biddle who built a wooden hut in
"Adam's" yard with entrance to it from the "Back Road". This
new fangled entertainment caught on and there were usually full houses every
Saturday night, when every seat was taken, from the hard forms in the front
rows, where one's head was tilted back at an excruciating angle and the figures
on the screen were all out of focus, to the cushioned "tip ups" in the
four back rows where the young "mashers" with velvet collars to their
coats entertained their girl friends to "a night at the pictures" and
a box of chocolates from Miss Dinning's wee shop in the School Vennal. While
today the "talkies" are shown on wide screens and in colour it is
doubtful if present day cinema patrons ever equal the thrill experienced by the
older generation as they watched Pearl White being tied to a railway line or a
sawbench and had to wait until the following week's episode to find out whether
or not she escaped. in the days of the "Bughut" patrons did not
complain about having to wait while "Roddie" changed each reel or
repaired breakdowns in the films and were quite content to stamp their feet in
time to the "British Cavalry" played on the old upright piano by Miss
Murray or Miss McNab who could so skllfully fit the piano accompaniment to the
type of film being shown. Whilst the entertainment was much less sophisticated
in those days the enjoyment was much greater, or seemed so, and everyone
heartily laughed at the antics of Mack Sennet or openly and unashamedly cried
with Lilian Gish in her misfortunes.
After Mr. Biddle
the next owner was Mr. Gilmour and some years later he built a new "Carrick
Cinema" at the top of Welltrees Street and the old and original cinema was
taken down. The new picture house was much larger and possessed a balcony with
"cuddle seats" in the back row and once again there were queues for
admission each Saturday night when there were two "houses" and the
young couples manoeuvred to get the back seats. When "talkies" came in
it was not long before the cinema was converted to sound and the townsfolk
tearfully enjoyed "Smiling Through" and other epics, perhaps a little
later but every bit as happily as the city dwellers. Cinema business was so good
between the two World Wars that another one, "The Ailsa" was built at
the bottom of the "Smiddy Brae" and for many years the townspeople had
a choice of programme. This interest in "the pictures" died out when
television was invented and became as necessary in most homes as the kitchen
table and the "Carrick" closed down in the 1950s and became a
warehouse and the "Ailsa", although struggling on against the
competition of the "goggle box" for some years, finally became a Bingo
Hall and now draws large crowds who sit with heads reverently bowed over their
Bingo cards listening to the mystic incantations of the "caller"
chanting "Kelly's eye" or "Legs eleven" and praying for a
certain number to turn up to complete their lines.
Maybole never has
boasted of a theatre in the town but last century many strolling players set up
"geggies" or wooden booths on the town green and played to large
audiences who sat spell-bound through the performances. Every other year a
famous company of performers, who went by the name of Bostock, would visit the
town and they invariably played "Romeo and Juliet". The part of Romeo
was always played by one of the Bostock family who was known as
"Surly", and Juliet by a lady billed as Miss McGuire who was a married
lady of about fifty summers with a grown up family of four sons and two
daughters who all took part in the performances. Entrance charges were usually a
penny, with twopence being the price of the front seats, being entirely in
reverse to the system in the cinema of later days where the front seats were the
cheapest and the prices rose the further one sat back from the screen. The
townsfolk were sometimes difficult to please and thought nothing of throwing
things at the actors if they did not play their parts as the Minniebolers
thought they should be played, and indeed on one occasion the audience was so
displeased they wrecked the "geggie" which was set on fire by lamps
being overturned. Prior to the "penny geggie" period plays were
performed by itinerant actors in the old "Dancing Room" in the
Tolbooth and records show the rents charged to the strolling players for weekly
lets of the hall. Since the Town Hall was built many companies have played in it
but with the coming of the cinema the taste for live drama died out in the town
and with the exception of local amateur players who occasionally put on a play
in winter there have been no "strolling players" walking the boards in
Maybole for many years.
In addition to
youth organizations, bands, choirs, etc., Maybole has always been well served
with other forms of social activities. Most churches have guilds for both men
and women and many people are brought to speak or demonstrate to the members on
every type of subject. There is a strong Towns-women's Guild and Cooperative
Guild and no one need feel lonely on a winter night as everyone is welcomed. The
Darby and Joan Club which meets in Carnegie Library weekly caters for the needs
of the older generation and the people of the town have organizations to fill
the needs of everyone from childhood to retirement age. Evening classes are held
each winter in the various schools and there one can be taught anything from
country dancing to baking cakes lest anyone should come to visit. The British
Legion (which was first mooted when Earl Haig visited the Marquess of Ailsa at
Culzean after the end of the first World War) flourished in the town exceedingly
well for many years although unfortunately of later years it has not been the
force it was formerly. For some years a drama group put on plays annually in the
Town Hall and, although in abeyance meantime, it may yet start up again. There
have been from time to time clubs of every description, from Photography Clubs
to Judo Clubs, and at present there are some Youth Clubs in the town with strong
memberships. While often a club is formed, flourishes exceedingly well and then
in time dies out no doubt the old town will continue to have its own groups of
enthusiasts who band together to amuse and educate themselves, with little,
regard to what goes on outside its boundaries and, though men may walk on the
moon, to a Minnieboler the world will still revolve around the old Capital of
Carrick as it has done for so many during the past eight hundred years.
Curiously enough
Maybole men have never started a Rotary Club, or a Round Table, or similar
organizations so popular in many other towns. This may be due to the influence
of their womenfolk who for generations were barred from the various Guilds of
Masons, Shoemakers, etc., and who, since their emancipation, are determined the
menfolk will never again be free to meet in all male company. As these
organizations usually meet for lunch it may be, however, that the Maybole man,
when asked to join a Rotary Club, spoke for all when he said, "Na, na. I
havna' the time thro' the day and anyway I'm better fed at home." There
used to be, however, one all male club which existed in the town for purely
social purposes. This was the "High Jinks" club which had its
headquarters in a local Inn for many years last century. Its members met once a
week for breakfast before they started their work and held a dinner in the
evening once a year. Before a member could be admitted he must have been the
originator of a successful practical joke against some of his fellow townsmen
and it was a strict condition that such jokes must be humorous and not ill
intended to its victim. Naturally the club members were all witty and high
spirited men and the breakfasts must have been happy starts to a working day and
the annual dinners hilarious occasions. At each annual dinner new members were
dubbed with imaginary titles, very often characteristic of the member, and it is
recorded one foppish member was called "Lord Haw Haw". Another (Dr.
Hathon who was said to be a better talker than a practitioner) was named
"Lord Humbug" but he objected and was re-christened "The Marquess
of Blarney" which title he accepted with equanimity. The club members were
nearly all bachelors to begin with but as time went on most of them married and
dropped their attendance at breakfast and finally the membership was reduced to
three hardened old bachelors, who continued to meet once a year for dinner until
one died, another became bedridden and the last one decided the day of the
"High Jinks" club was over, and so ended the only really social men's
club in the town. In the present times wives would frown on their spouses
cheerily setting out for breakfast in a hotel once a week and probably demand
that they be taken with them and most husbands would agree this would spoil the
whole spirit of the venture. Few wives would understand why it could be possible
for their husbands to be live sparks among their fellow men at breakfast on one
morning in the week when probably they sat behind a newspaper at home on the
other six mornings.
For generations
there was a strong Burns Club in the town which met annually for a supper of
haggis and neeps in the Kings Arms but this Club died out during the second
World War. Other Burns Clubs have started up, however, and probably for
generations to come the Bard will be toasted each 25th of January in the old
town where his father and mother first met and were married in the church at the
Kirkport.
Taking everything
into consideration the city dweller need waste no sympathy on the small townsman
and feel that he leads a dull and monotonous life as, in the case of Maybole at
any rate, the boot is on the other foot and the countryman leads a full and
varied life, making his own pleasures among his own folk and does not need
strangers in theatres or picture houses to entertain him. The greatest and most
glamorous film star can never thrill the city man on the silver screen as does
"oor wee Jeannie" when she sings or recites on the Town Hall platform
to an audience of locals who have known her since she was born. The greatest
elocutionist can never hope to equal "Our Willie" when he throws off
his jacket to address the Haggis at a local Burns supper, where everyone is
ready to fill in the words should he falter, and certainly to a Minnieboler no
story teller could possibly outshine "Jimmy" when he told of his
attempt to join the "Council". The social life of a small town, where
everyone happily joins in, is a thing to be treasured and preserved and it is
hoped it will never really die out.
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