To the south of
the East Lothian village of Gullane sits the confused yellow rubble remains
of Saltcoats castle on the site of an ancient salt marsh (which may explain
why the castle is called Saltcoats) ,consisting of a late 16th century
oblong hall house with ornate archway and immediately above a row of
gargoyles which may have been part of a mock battlement walk way. To the
north of this hall house is the shell of an oblong kitchen block and a
square mid 17th century style lectern dovecot, all linked by a low courtyard
wall raised in the late 17th century. Apparently the castle was originally
surrounded by an extensive garden, orchard and to the east a bowling green
which was still discernible in the late 19th century all now sadly gone. To
the west of the castle is a row of modern (early 19th century) cottages
built with material taken from the castle around 1810 when the site was used
as a quarry.
The lands of
Gullane in the 12th century were held by the Anglo-Norman De-Vaux family who
locally not only built the great castle of Dirleton around 1225 but also
raised the Norman chapel on the outskirts of Gullane. However the present
ruin of Saltcoats was not constructed by the De-Vauxs or their descendants
(through marriage) the Halyburtons. But by the Livingtouns or Lethingtons of
Saltcoats,said to be "an ancient family in East Lothian." Anciently, the
Lethingtons are said to have built the L-plan Towerhouse of 'Lethington'
near Haddington ,known today as Lennoxlove. Which passed by marriage to the
Maitlands.
Interestingly
there are some unintentional tenuous links between Dirleton castle and
Saltcoats. First it's ornate archway has a similar appearance to the gate
house added to Dirleton by the Halyburton family in 1350. Secondly the
heraldry of the Livingtouns is the same style as both the De-Vauxs and
Halyburtons being made up of a diagonal bend. Though this doesn't
necessarily suggest that the Livingtouns/Lethingtons were in anyway kin to
the De-Vauxs or the Halyburtons. But because both the De-Vauxs and the
Lethingtons were active in East Lothian around the same time it does seem
likely that they were somehow related.
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Around 1590
local tradition claims a Patrick or Peter Livingtoun killed a notorious wild
boar in the woods of Gullane.He was then rewarded with the lands of
Saltcoats close to where he killed the wild beast. Certainly the Livingtoun
heraldry was amended with a decapitated boar's head above the bend in
recognition of this event. Ironically some writers have mistaken this boar's
head to be an otter's head which hardly has the same significance. Killing a
wild otter is unlikely to merit the gift of the lands of Saltcoats.
Patrick built
the castle and kitchen in 1590 though the ornate arch may have been added
later since this sections gunloops are in a 1600's style. The dovecot may
have been built by Patrick's son as it is of a 1630 to 1660 style. Patrick's
heraldry and that of his wife Margaret Fettis of Fawside are carved on a
datestone of 1590 (which has been recut as 1390 for reasons unknown)
embedded in a panel above the doorway of the modern cottage. Likely this
panel was originally above the castle arch. In 1695 a G.Livingtoun (possibly
Patrick's grandson) built the courtyard wall connecting the castle, the
kitchen and the dovecot. It is claimed there was a well nearby but since the
whole site is based on drained salt marsh this seems unlikely.
In the early
1700's the estate passed to the Hamiltons of Pencaitland and was intact
until 1810 when it was turned into a quarry for the next 10 years to built
the modern cottages and farm dykes. Thankfully during this demolition
Saltcoat's "stones were found to be so firmly cemented together that they
were compared to having been sheathed in steel". So the demolition was
abandoned and at least some of the castle survives for us to view today.
Andrew Spratt
spratt@supanet.com
August 2000A.D
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